Manual Gear Shift lever

[Mike Wattam <MikeWattam@domain.elided>]

Hi Mark

The design of gear lever is identical in theory, for all Triumphs using the
large aluminium casing gearbox, that is TR4, 5, 6, Dolomite Sprint,
Innsbruck saloon range and Stag.  They all use the same overdrive switch
and surround, and similar anit-rattle springs and fixing bayonets at the
bottom, and also fit in identical change speed housings.

However, although the bottom end of the gear lever is identical, the upper
ends vary in a number of ways;
1.  central hole for overdrive wiring to pass through, or not
2.  length from pivot ball to top of lever
3.  offset for RHD and LHD on some models (TR, Innsbruck)
4.  toip end of lever chrome plated, or not

I have isolated 14 different part numbers, and I don't even have a complete
set of parts books!

As the lever appears to be made from a high quality steel with some kind of
hardening process carried out on it, it is going to be difficult to take
the 'wrong' lever and modify it to what you want, unless just shortening
the threaded end which has been left soft.

Regarding bearings, in theory all ball and roller bearings are made to
common sizes and specifications and if you have the old bearing (or the
make and complete reference number printed on the edge of the inner or
outer track which exactly identifies the bearing), any bearing stockist
should be able to get you the right bearing  - or even have it on the
shelf.

However, Triumph have managed to use 'special' bearings in the gearbox
(only) by taking standard bearings and specifying a non-standard circlip
groove.  Bearings can be bought with standardised circlip grooves cut in
them already, but the positioning appears to be different than that used by
Triumph.

The other problem you need to watch is quality, you only get what you pay
for.  Considering that if the Triumph-sourced bearing costs 100, the
bearing stockist should be able to supply the exactly correct specification
bearing at 40 to 75.  There are stockists however who are supplying poor
quality 'Pacific Rim' bearings at 20 to 50, these are normally identifiable
by having a reduced number of larger balls or rollers than the correct
part, with weak and crudely finished seperators/cages and the general
finish may look inferior.

Similar remarks apply to oil seals used on the Stag, and on the bearbox
there are also a couple of 'specials' - check your good bearing stockist
first before ordering from the Triumph parts supplier.

As you are reconditioning your differential, please be aware that the
leather nose bearing seal is not available any more.  If your seal is good,
then soak it in dif oil for 24 hours before refitting, these leather seals
are very good at absorbin misalignment which does happen with the Triupm
'Quill-shaft' arrangement.  If you need to buy a seal, you will only be
able to get a modern type poly-rubber lip seal.  As far as I have ever
found, there is only place where a properly fitting seal (which lasts) can
be obtained and that is Hart Racing Services in London - who can normally
be relied upon to supply the best available when quality is critical (along
with Paddock).

Talking of quill shafts for a moment, if your diff had been leaking oil out
of its nose before you stripped it, it will have washed out the grease from
the pre-packed bearing fitted in the quill shaft housing and although it
might seem good now, in 1K it will be making all kinds of noises to come
out!  This is a standard bearing you should be able to pick up real cheap.

I hope you are aware of the special techniques involved in setting up the
diff correctly, and ensuring you are using the correct gears (TR and
Innsbruck gears are not as heavy duty as the Stag).

Hope the above helps.  Please let me know if I can help any more.

Mike Wattam
Chairman - Triumph Stag Register