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Pressing Rear Bushings Out
The tubes that hold the bushings are brazed into the trailing arms.
Unless you support the end of the tube exactly right, you can ruin the
trailing arm trying to press the old bushings out.
I normally use sockets of various sizes as mandrels for the hydraulic
press. The sockets are guaranteed for life and seem to work for this purpose
without damage. However, finding sockets exactly the right size to press the
bushings out of the trailing arms is difficult. I tore up more than one
trailing arm with this method.
I had a friend make me a set of mandrels on his lather. They are
exactly the right size to remove the front and rear bushings in the trailing
arms. He also cut a set of dies that support the lower end, which is the
most important part.
Even with the correct tools, the bushings are often so rusted in place
that they tear out chunks of metal during the removal process.
So either take the trailing arms to someone with the proper equipment
and warn them that they are brazed together. Or else, as you suggest, burn
out the rubber and cut the metal with a hacksaw.
I am not sure that the urethane bushings are the best thing since
sliced bread, but they sure are easy to install and remove.
Ciao,
Russ Neely
Oklahoma City
In a message dated 01/28/2002 5:57:55 PM Central Standard Time,
[email protected] writes:
>
> Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 13:21:34 -0700
> From: Ed Lutz <[email protected]>
> Subject: Pressing question
>
> I'm getting my things set to start rebuilding the suspension on my '74
> Spider. All the rubber is shot and the rod ends are loose. I am
> wondering about the rear trailing arms. All the write-ups I have seen
> say to burn and cut the bushings out. Is this because they are in so
> tight using a press will generally damage the trailing arm, or is the
> burn and cut method recommended since most people don't have a press
> available.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed
> Loveland, CO.
> 1974 Spider with a 1750 under the hood
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