RE: Rear End Twitch

[Richard Brake <richard.brake@domain.elided>]

Where you say you greased the splines, were they worn?  i.e. "Sloopy"
If so just greasing them will not rectify this problem. The other
suspect areas are;

1)	Differential mount bush's, (you can change these to super-flex)
2)	Rear subframe mount bush's, (if you jack the car up and the tube
pulls through then they're SHOT)

If the half-shafts are in need of replacement then I recommend the
roller ball conversion kit (based on Datsun 180B halfshafts, approx.
�450 the pair). These use larger metric U/J's and are very robust.
Alternatively the SNG CV joint halfshafts sound even better (although
I've had no experience of these, approx. �800 the pair).

This problem always seems more prevalent on Automatic's. Most drivers
going fast through bends in manual cars are too busy to change gear.
Triumph always refered to this problem as "Sticktion" (no joke) as the
splines snatch and then release, I've moved to using "Slick One" grease
(based on the same stuff as "Slick 50"). This is whilst I'm saving up
for 3 sets of Datsun driveshaft conversions. 

If anyone needs the name of a supplier let me know. The cost comes down
if you can supply the Datsun driveshafts, the metric U/J's and the rear
hub bearing kits. You pay for the Triumph flange yoke (to the diff) and
the stub axle to be machined for the bigger U/J's and the hub's to be
rebuilt. You can do some or all the assembly work yourself. Rebuilding
the hubs is supposedly tricky because of the collapsable spacers,
however fiting the metric U/J's to the flanges and pre-assembled hubs is
easy.


Richard  Brake
richard.brake@domain.elided