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RE: Rear Subframe




This is how I've done it;

Jack the car up with the jack under the back of the differential, not
allowing the load to go through the nose-piece. 
Then support the car on the two jacking points at the back of the sills.

If the Jacking points are missing, place tow pieces of wood approx. 1"x
3" x 12" long underneath the sills (at the back) and then place axle
stands under those (this spreads the load). If the sills are flaky (i.e.
they give under hand pressure or have rust holes) then forget about the
rear suspension and have the sills replaced instead! 

If you are jacking the car up and down without the rear suspension then
place something sturdy 6"x 2" or more (builders plank) across the car
underneath the two sill load spreaders that I've already mentioned.

I have done it this way and then placed a trolley underneath the wood
enabling me to move the structure around.

As I've said the sills (and rest of bodyshell) must be solid otherwise
you will be driving something resembling a Banana rather than a Triumph!


Richard  Brake
[email protected]

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	[email protected]
[SMTP:[email protected]]
	Sent:	16 March 1999 16:07
	To:	[email protected]
	Subject:	Rear Subframe




	I've sent this again as it appears to have got lost in the
ether...


	Hello All

	Please could I have views about where exactly is the safest/best
place to
	jack up the rear of the body prior to removing the rear
suspension
	subframe?   None of the manuals seem to be specific on that.

	Incidentally, I've just removed the B-Post interior trim panels.
On the
	back  is scribbled "KB"  26/8/75 so I suppose that gives me a
reasonably
	accurate guide to the build date.   However, the metal backing
panels have
	cut-outs for MK I style interior lamps.  I wonder if that means
that
	British Leyland didn't bother to re-design for MK II or was it
just that
	they still had lots of MK I specification panels lying around
over 2 years
	after MK II was introduced?

	regards

	Alastair







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