Re: Looking for a points plate

[Lenny Seidman <lseidman@domain.elided>]

Henry,
I would also check the fuel inertia switch( I think that's what it is
called?). It's the grey  approx 3"cylindrical gizmo located in the right
rear corner of the engine compartment  at the top near the wiper motor.

I 've had problems with mine and I finally ended up bypassing it. The
car would run fine and then cut off. Then wouldn't start, then would
run. After bypassing and removing the damn thing I haven't had a
problem.

Good luck,

Lenny Seidman

Henry Frye wrote:
> 
> Glenn,
> 
> Thanks for the excellent, informative post.
> 
> At 08:44 PM 1/22/99 -0700, Glenn Merrell wrote:
> >       So what is your plan to tackle the electrical problem?  So far the advice
> has
> >ranged from buy new, don't buy new, repair the old harness.  I guess it is
> time
> >for my heypenny's worth.
> 
> >       There are at least 4 harness and multiple combinations of main, facia and
> body
> >harness configurations that could be on your USA Stag.  Most likely, Rimmers
> >will only have the latest configuration for Right and Left Hand Steer
> models but
> >not for the USA models. This will limit your chances of locating a new
> correct
> >harness for fitting.  Once you determine the part numbers of the harness,
> it is
> >at least worth a call/fax/e-mail to ask if they stock it.    If you do
> decide to
> >start looking, there are two other places you might find the "right"
> harness.
> >That is Eight Parts and Stag Specialists, both in Tuscon, Arizona.  It is
> >unlikely you will find a New Old Stock NOS Stag Harness anywhere else
> except by
> >chance.  First, take a look at the suspect wiring, chase the harness back
> until
> >you locate a part number tag (hopfully it still is intact).  That will at
> least
> >give you a starting point to order from.
> 
> I had a good conversation with British Wiring, Olympia Fields, Illinois,
> USA. They stock (or, in the case of oddball colors, they can get) all the
> original wire and the connectors I need to repair the harness. They sell
> you any wire you need by the meter. There is an excellent article on
> repairing wiring harnesses at The Vintage Triumph Register's web site:
> 
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/wiring-harnesses.html
> 
> It was written by Dan Masters, the big Triumph List's electrical guru.
> After exchanging a few emails with Dan, and reading the article, I am ready
> to pull the main harness and repair it.
> 
> The part number for the main harness for my car, LE13213UO, has been
> identified by two sources. But, the part number is not stocked by any place
> I have checked. I'm on my own!
> 
> >       Building a harness from scratch from BL schematics will be a crapshoot at
> best,
> >plus to do it properly, you will need spools of Lucas style wire of the
> proper
> >size and color codes.  There are auto electrical shops that have the
> ability to
> >custom fab any harness, or repair, to your specs.  Just pick up a Hemmings
> Motor
> >News and look under "Wiring" in the Services section, make some calls, ask
> for
> >references for other sources.  To do it properly, the shop will need the old
> >harness so they can get the lengths correct, the right bends, and wires
> popping
> >out of the right spot in the harness, with the right connectors.
> 
> This is certainly possible, but I feel much more comfortable going the
> repair route myself. One screw up in the fabrication of a new harness will
> really ruin my day, not to mention the fact it must cost a small fortune to
> have it done.
> 
> >The distributor issue and the electronic ignition module:  This is not your
> >first Triumph, surely you have used the services somewhere that has seen a
> >Lumenation unit.  The schematic must be around, instructions might be
> available
> >from another  person on the list who has the same unit to make a copy.
> There is
> >a trouble shooting section in the Lucas instructions that enable you to trace
> >the problem to the module, sending unit, or coil.  If you decide to change to
> >points, order the parts from Rimmers to make up the parts you need.  But I'd
> >look for a copy of the Lucas instructions first (there is a Lucas web site
> >somewhere), and fix the harness problems before the distributor.  If you
> want to
> >slap in a distributor with points to test, let me know, mine will not be
> going
> >in for another couple of months, and I can ship it to you.
> 
> I have been offered the schematic from Thomas Jell. Thanks Tom. He offered
> to find his schematic, make a few relevant notes, and fax it to me from
> Germany to the US. What a guy!
> 
> At this point, I really suspect the Lumenition unit has failed, so I have
> not taken him up on it. FWIW, the Autocar website has a good
> troubleshooting page. Tom pointed me to this as well.
> 
> http://www.denaploy.co.uk/autocar/tb05.html
> 
> >Start-n-die.  So how old is the gas in the tank?  How old is the gas in the
> >carbs?  How long did it sit before starting?  Is the fuel pump pumping any
> fuel,
> >and for how long?  It may need to be torn down and cleaned, flush out the
> fuel
> >lines and replace the fuel filter.  US gas loves to grow neat little green
> >crystal structures on brass needle valves when the gas sits too long,
> blocking
> >fuel flow.  Then there are the electrics, totally suspect to where there
> could
> >be an intermittent contact shutting down spark and/or fuel.  Lots of
> variables
> >there.  Again, take care of the harness first, then test circuits out one
> at a
> >time looking for faulty accessories that caused the shorted harness.
> >Identifying the wire(s) melted will point you to the bad accessory(s) and
> >disconnecting them until you have tested each one.
> 
> I have received many people's comments speculating fuel problems. I have
> good documentation the car was driven 4000 miles in the past year. The
> gauge shows 1/2 tank, and the gas smells fine.
> 
> One of the portions of the wiring that is effected by the damage is the
> fuel pump circuit. When I got the car home, the first thing I did was put
> my 12V battery charger in the boot, and put the hot lead on the hot
> terminal, and the ground on the ground terminal. The pump came right to
> life, it ticked fast for about 10 ticks, then slowed to a few slow ticks,
> and stopped. Since the car had not run since last fall, I think that was
> about right to fill the line and the fuel bowls. The DPO cranked the car a
> lot trying to get it to start, not realizing he had no power to the fuel pump.
> 
> I then hooked the red wire from the Lumenition unit to a switched hot on
> the fuse box, and turned the key. The engine started immediately. It ran
> smoothly, the engine was not shaking a bit. It responded to throttle as if
> it was hitting on all 8 cylinders. No black smoke, just smooth as silk. I
> really was impressed. Ran for 5+ minutes, and quit. After a few minutes, it
> restarts like nothing is wrong, runs a few seconds, and stops as if the key
> is turned off.
> 
> I hooked up my timing light. I started the engine and watched the flashing
> light. The light stopped flashing simultaneously with the engine starting
> to wind down. It is clear the engine had stopped getting spark. This is an
> ignition problem.
> 
> Both the coil and the Lumenition module are getting 12V as the engine
> quits. The problem is either the coil is overheating and shorting, or the
> module is. I will swap in a good Lucas 12V coil today, but I am quite sure
> now the problem is the Lumenition Module. I have a few leads in my search
> for a stock points plate and coil for testing purposes. When I have those
> parts, I will have a much better handle on the situation.
> 
> >Okay, shot my wad, your turn.
> >
> >In My Humble Opinion, Yours for speculation!
> 
> As always, I appreciate your comments. I can't wait to get this car on the
> road! If only this ice would melt...   ;-)
>  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>  Henry Frye - thefryes@domain.elided - Connecticut, USA
>  TR3B   TCF1927 L       Driver
>  TR250  CD690 L         Soon to be Driver
>  TR250  CD8096 L        Someday Driver
>  TR250  CD1074 L        For Sale (soon!)
>  Stag MkI               Gonna have to move this up the list...
>  Homepage         http://members.iconn.net/thefryes/

-- 
Lenny Seidman
Elkins Park, Pennsylvania, USA  
email: lseidman@domain.elided