Re: TR3 head removal

["Glenn A. Merrell" <gmerrel@domain.elided>]

MMoore8425 wrote:
> I think I MIGHT try using a jam nut on top of
> the nut on the head stud and see if I could unscrew the studs from the block.
> I might put a lot of Liquid Wrench down the holes in the head where the studs
> are siezed first and let it soak.

Hi Mike,
	Been there, done that, 4 times (two engines).  Besides, when I bought
my Stag, the 4 of the 5 studs on the left head were already broken
off...flush!  The threads on the right head studs were so buggered up,
probably from a stud remover, that a second nut would not thread on. The
PSDPO had tried welding onto the broken studs, then drilling parallel
holes into the head by the studs in the left head to put in penetrant,
not knowing that the studs are not perpendicular to the block.  (I just
got that head back from my repair guru, who press fitted aluminum rod
back into the drilled holes to close things up.)  I soaked the studs for
6 months, everyday with liquid wrench, Kroil, heat, etc.  When I finally
got the heads off with the rope method, the penetrant had gone down
about all of 1/2 inch from the top of the head.  Upon reassembly, mine
gets stainless steel grade 9 head bolts.
	TR3 is a smaller head, so it will most likely be an easier lift, and
rope method is a last resort to trashing the head.  Using the starter,
you only get about 7/8 of a rotation before it stops.  You have to
reverse the crank by hand to the opposite rotation, then kick the
starter.

Regards,
Glenn