Re: Driver's door lock stiff (87 e30)

[David Lefebvre <drl@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Are you sure it's not the key? In my case it only worked in the trunk and 
ignition until the ignition gave out. New key, new tumbler. The old key 
will only open the trunk. I recall a similar failure scenario (i.e., doors, 
ignition, trunk) with worn keys on my last Mercedes.

If you can't find the equivalent at a BMW dealer, go to a Mercedes dealer 
and order a 10 mL spraycan of Part No. A001 989 26 51 10. My Mercedes 
dealer had never ordered this before I requested it. They both use Huff as 
OEM for the cylinders and keys. Good luck. It's not cheap. Whatever you do, 
do not use graphite.


At 01:06 PM 1/30/03 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello all,
>The car in question is an 87 325i 4 dr.  The all the gizmos in the door locks
>seem to work electrically. However, unlocking the driver's door has always
>been very tough.  Sometimes you have to wiggle the key the other way first,
>and even then, there is a lot of resistance to turning the key, and the
>action feels very "heavy".  It feels like something is too tight or needs
>lubing perhaps.  That was when it lived in texas anyway.  The car is now
>living in NJ in the cold.  My dad broke off one key in the lock before it got
>real cold, and then he said that yesterday it froze up completely.  They were
>able to unlock the other doors from the trunk lock or passenger door, but
>until it warmed up the driver's door lock wouldn't budge.  They said they
>couldn't even unlock it from the inside.
>I can't do the work on this from TX, so I need to tell them what to lube or
>replace in there.  They have the bentley, and I can walk them through dis/ass
>of the door, but what are they going in after?
>Thanks for the help as always,
>Jake Hahn
>95 318ti
>College Station, TX
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