[no subject]

>3.  Flip the computer switch in the ECU one rotated position form the 
>factory position, then likely one or two, not more, teeth on the AFM 
>wheel to match.  The computer switch plus the 325i throttle will get at 
>least 3/4 second, usually one second, faster zero to sixty.
>     For every proponent of this mod there are at least a few uninformed 
>flamers who have never tried it but throw doo doo at whoever says its 
>worth a try.  I've done the mod succesfully to at least ten cars, so 
>shut up or put up.  Maybe these flamers spent a few hundred on some 
>underperforming computer chip and need to try to justify their expense, 
>but until we are able to change the rate at which time passes, my 
>stopwatch will continue not to lie.

I'm still familiarizing myself with the car and where everything is
located, but I should get my service manual soon.  Haven't gotten
around to finding the ECU yet.  What does the switch there control?
Sounds easy to do though, doesn't cost anything, and would always
be easy to flip back.



>4.  Wheels:
>     Don't go taller, go shorter.  Taller wheels add rotational mass. 
> So they need more to spin up, not less.  Plus they don't allow as short 
>a tire either.
>For instance, a 13x8 wheel with 224/45x13 Hoosier or 215/50x13 BFG is 
>about 21" inches tall.  So you get at least ten percent better torque to 
>the road over the shortest size, a 205/50x14, that fits the stock wheel 
>diameter.  The total weight of the 13" setup is at least 10, more like 
>15 pounds lighter than any 14" setup you can get.
>     For verification of the effectiveness in both handling and 
>holeshots of this idea, check out what the successful C and D street 
>prepared autocrosser use.
>     Also, 13 inch tires and wheels are considerably less expensive than 
>similar quality in larger sizes, so replacing the tires takes less bite 
>out of the wallet too.

I was always under the impression that lower profile tires would improve
handling (at the expense of ride quality).  The general trend on most 
vehicles seems to be towards larger wheels with lower profile tires.
So other than looks, why go that direction?  I've just never heard of
going to a smaller diameter wheel, but my knowledge of autocross setups
is very limited.  I assume there is not a problem with 13" wheel clearing
the disc brakes.

What would be the disadvantages of a 13" setup?  Isn't the higher profile
tire going to roll more in corners?  I'm used to driving 33" tires on 15" 
wheels, so I understand about the rotating weight too.



>5.  Air Filter:
>     Get a Purolator air filter listed for a Chevy/Isuzu Sprint.  Its a 
>natural for the BMW air flow meter.  Snaps on real snug to the AFM 
>inlet.  Long enough to get a charge of air to the AFM.  the lack of 
>which is the main reason why not to run an open AFM with just a screen 
>over it.  This filter is effective on most any BMW AFM, not just for the 
>ETA motor.
>     The metal domed section of the top of the air filter box will have 
>to be hack sawed off so the Purolator filter can clear.  but by keeping 
>the rest of the upper section fo the air filter box, avoid the problem 
>common to alternate air filter setups.  That problem is "how do you 
>mount the filter and get it to stay securely attached?"

What's difference between a Sprint filter and a BMW filter, or does
Purolator not make one for the BMW?  I checked out the air box last
night, but didn't pull the filter out, so I'm not sure I understand
all of that.  Are there not kits that allow you to remove the air
box completely and run a conical K&N filter?  Or is that the problem
you were referring to?  Also, what information does the AFM gather
for the computer?



>6.  Lubrication:  As with any BMW, Mobil 5W30 in the motor, six quart 
>fill, with Redline MTL in the trans and 75W90NS in the rear.
>Happy Motoring,
>
>'jk

I normally use Mobil 1 on my Jeep, but is it worth it for a BMW with
over 200k miles that's always had non-synthetic?

Thanks for all the great info!

- -doug

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