Re: Replacing 96 E36 328IC ignition lock

[alex.fadeev@xxxxxxxxxxx]

"David Lefebvre" <drl@domain.elided> wrote:
> 
> I have a 96 E36 328IC. My ignition lock started acting up about six
> months ago. It would spin freely; if I forced the steering column to
> unlock, it would click and I could start it. A couple days ago, it 
> totally locked up. Out of twenty tries now, I can get it to spin 
> freely, 

Dave,
This is a classic case of a failing E36 lock cylinder.
The anti-theft cylinder used in E36 cars is very fragile and designed to 
break off and spin freely if someone is trying to man handle it with a 
screw driver. The same outcome is not uncommon if you or your SO are 
anything but very gentle in disengaging the wheel lock. 
My wife wasn't. She killed hers well within the warranty period and the 
dealers had traditionally been replacing this one under warranty. IIRC, 
the pre-coded ignition lock cost around $90. 

> but I can't remove the lock cylinder even with the "special
> tool" inserted in the detent.
> Questions: (1) am I going to have to drill the cylinder out? 

That's weird - it should come out.
You may have to break a metal tab that covers the hole where the 'special 
tool' (small screw driver) goes in to get the lock cylinder to pop out.

> (2) the car does not have the factory security system. 

If it is a post 1/96 production car (most, but not all '96 MY cars are), 
you have EWS. The ignition lock doubles as a code reader for the EWS 
computer and may or may not need to be synchronized with it. 

> Can I replace the lock cylinder with one from a salvage car 
> until I get one in one week's time from the magic elves in 
> the Black Forest?

You can just pop the old lock out, leave it plugged in so that it could 
continue to send the key code to the EWS computer, and use screw driver to 
start the car

Hope this helps,
alex f

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