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re: 1995 318i
re: 1995 318i:
Here's the low budget stuff I did to a 1995 318. Larger
investments are a waste of money. It takes considerable investment to
approach the speed of an e36 325i, and your money is better saved
towards the down payment on an //M3, as I did.
Compared to the other models, my experiences have shown the 318i is
too fat a car for that engine to tug around.
If you want what _can be done, cost be damned, to a normally
aspirated 318, refer back to the "more power for the new 318" article
from Euro Sport Car, a late 1995 issue. This article was also reprinted
in the BMW Car Club of Canada's newsletter or magazine sometime in 1996.
But to add a quarter second or more zero to sixty and noticeable
throttle response to what you have now, for $75. or less:
Air Intake:
+Replace the air filter with the appropriate K&N. I even have my
old one here in the garage, since I was never able to find anyone
modifying a 318 to sell or give it to.
+inside the air filter box there is a little plastic air horn. On
the front of the box is a plastic coupler.
Remove both and toss them in your recycling bin.
Alternatively:
+Use a round cylindrical air filter from a Chevy/Isuzu Sprint.
It is in the standard selection of air filters stocked at any Pep
Boys. This wonderful filter had BMW in mind when it was designed. It
pops wonderfully right on the end of the AFM. I used these on every E30
I could once I discovered them. As effective as any snout kit/K&N, at a
fraction of the cost.
For this filter to fit in place, cut out the upper dome in the
original filter box for clearance, and reinstall the filter box as was.
+in your exhaust, the rear muffler is ok, just weighs a ton.
Do go to an exhaust shop and have them cut out the resonator and
replace it with straight 2 1/4' pipe. This is rearward of the cat, so
there are no EPA or CARB issues with doing this, just like replacing
your whole exhaust would be. Removing the resonator is an old mod going
back to the '02 and earlier.
In fact, you should see the improvement in an 850 when you straight pipe
the resonator from that beast.
+in the air flow meter, bend the bump stop that limits the pointer
arms movement another few mm looser. You want the pointer to just
barely touch the bump stop. Now you'll get a few mm more movement up
the carbon band at full throttle.
+the pointer arm is very likely in an optimum position form the
factory. Just to check, try it a tooth or two each way from the factory
position. Drive a tank or two at each postion you try that seems like
it might run ok. Fuel economy is sometimes a better way to find the
best tooth on the gear than timing acceleration.
Anyone who wants to critcize AFM modifying, is welcome to submit their
comments to /dev/null.
Some of us believe in it, other prefer not to.
+body weight: there is 75+ pounds of sound deadener and insulation
lining the trunk panels, rear seat, inside rear body panels, and under
the rear deck cover.. These foam/fiber sheets are easily removed, the
increase in road noise is minimal as long as you keep the rear seat
bottom and trunk mat in place. May not seem like much but 3% weight
reduction is something you will feel, like taking two spare tires out of
your trunk.
This dead weight is in all BMWs, not just the 318.
Enjoy,
'jk
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