re: E36 (and E46) bushings and negative camber

[JKEROUAC@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]

re: E36 (and E46) front end bushings and negative 
camber
     No need to worry about minor camber changes 
between various styles of E36/46 front control arm 
bushings.
Here's why:
     The best front end modification that almost 
nobldy does but everybody ought to, that factory stock 
legal bolt for the axle carrier.  Its in the parts 
listings described as "bolt". Simple enough.  BMW 
charges a buck each.  This is the bolt that mounts 
horizontally connecting the axle carrier to the strut 
tube, behind and rearward of the brake caliper.
     So $2.00 gets you an increase of 2 degrees, one 
degree per side, of negative camber.
     This bolt is no voodoo, its just a thinner 
diameter than stock, so you can angle the hub inward 
at the top.  This is _definitely a bolt to be sure to 
use a torque wrench on when tightening, and a hit of 
red loctite would be a good idea too.
     If you're taking the time to change front control 
arm bushings, take another ten minutes per side at 
most to change these bolts.  This would be a good time 
to do it since you need to realign after changing the 
bushings anyway.
     With the increased negative camber, try setting 
the toe to .03 inward for street usage, zero to .06 
out for competitive use.  This is less than the awful 
factory alignment spec that BMW's lawyers make the 
factory specify.  Others may suggest different toes 
in, this is what I like to set my cars to.  If this 
makes the steering response feel too 'light' or the 
self centering too imprecise for your taste, try up 
to .06 toe in per side.  However with more toe in to 
get more steering 'feel', you will make the car 
understeer more, even though to the seat of the pants 
it may make the car feel like it is handling 'better'.
Happy Motoring,
'jk

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