<E36> Sound: MP3 Players/Disc Changers?

[Bill Graves <wwg@xxxxxxx>]

Perry and Others -

I shared this on another list back a ways, but here's a possible
option for you that retains your stock head.  I am still very happy
with this solution.

Just thought I would pass along my experience.  While I did this to a
2002 M3, the BMWPILA will fit almost all "I Bus" ('96 on E36, E46, and
E39s) BMWs without DSP or NAV.  (But do your research first!)

In short, I purchased a PIE BMWPILA CD Changer adapter.  These units
have Aux
inputs.  I then ran the input back into the cabin.  With it, when the
Business CD "Mode" switch is hit, "CD changer" mode is now available
and while there is no relevant info on the display, the sound through
the unit is from my portable MP3 player.

The long story:

This installation works on my 2002 M3 with split folding seats, the
Business CD and
HK, but it should work on the non-HK as well.  The word is it won't
work if you have DSP or a NAV system - but I think that is due to the
shape of the connectors and is not electrically problematic if you are
willing to experiment a little.  Try that at your own risk!

I got the PIE BMWPILA CD Changer adapter from Crutchfield:

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-q9T0KoiLzzM/ProdView.asp?a=&s=0&g=42300&id=essential_info&i=541BMWPILA

I am using this with an Archos Jukebox 20 Recorder
(http://www.archos.com/), but it should work with any audio input from
a cassette deck to portable CD to MP3 player to...  The inputs on the
PILA are two "RCA jacks" so you may need an adapter cable.

The steps to gain access to the connections:
    (These are as modified to fit my 2002 from Dave Heckendorf's
excellent description from Loki's web site (go to "Accessories")
describing CD Changer installation, see:
http://members.roadfly.com/loki/e46m3_faq.html)

    1.  Remove the left rear taillight panel by applying finger
pressure to the clip inside the access hole.

    2.  Completely lift out and remove the trunk floor line ("Spare
tire" cover).

    3.  Lower the left (driver's) side Split-Folding Rear Seat back
and then to start the process of partially removing the left-rear
carpet panel (sidewall protection) from the left (driver's in North
America) side of the trunk.  It is held in place by several expanding
two-piece plastic rivets.  Remove the first two starting from the rear

of the car.  The first is on the lower left near the taillight and the

second in the upper middle of the side trim panel. These rivets are
removed by lifting the inner "pin" which pushes into the outer
"molly".  A flat screwdriver comes in handy here, just pry the two
discs you see apart, remove the "pin", and then remove the "molly".
Once the two molly's are removed go to the next step.

    4.  Remove the left-rear floor tray by first removing the two
Molly bolts that are holding it to the spare tire well.  (I'll call it

that even though there is no spare!)  These two molly's (expanding
two-piece plastic rivets) are slightly different (bigger) than the
carpet panel ones, DO NOT mix them up.  Then remove the tray by
lifting up on the spare tire side so that the lips up under the
sidewall carpet panel are cleared before pulling it out.

    5.  Then just bend the carpet panel slightly to gain access to the

CD cable area.

Now the wiring:
    Looking at Dave's Picture 1, the connectors are in the wires
behind the angled support - wrapped in a fuzzy bag to keep them from
rattling.  Pull them out and unwrap them - but save the wrapper.  The
three pin connector contains power leads, the other 6 pin unit is the
data/audio connection.  For my purposes (adding an Aux input only) I
wanted a constantly live Aux input, so, in addition to plugging in the

two connectors, I needed to connect the two other leads on the
BMWPILA:  the "switched hot line" (a loose red wire) and the "enable
the Aux inputs line" (a loose gray wire) to permanent connections.
(The PILA's red wire needs to be connected to a switched power lead
and the gray to a ground lead.)  I connected the red wire to the
white-red-orange (at least I think the third color was orange) lead on

the three pin connector and the gray wire to the brown lead.  (The
PILA instructions say that for 2000 the white-red-orange wire was just

white.)  You can use the snap on style clips or splice the wires
directly - your choice.  I did remove a little of the overwrap
insulation from the cable to get enough room between the connector and

the overwrap.)

Note:  If you want both a Pioneer changer AND Aux input, then the Gray

wire needs to be run into the cabin and a SPST switch added before its

connected to ground.

Next I bolted the PILA to that same angled support (or crossbar) -
there were two holes in just the right position - although one needed
an extra big washer.  As the PILA is a metal box, I did put some foam
tape between it and the crossbar.  I bolted it behind the crossbar,
between the crossbar and the fender.

Then I just took a dual 6' RCA male jacked cable to (in my case) a
1/8" stereo plug (but any combination is fine) and ran it from the
PILA into the cabin through the Ski sack access door.  It hides nicely

under the trunk floor carpet.  6' gets you into the back seat but not
as far as I'd like.  I got the cable from Radio Shack but they are
widely available.  I will likely either get an extension or a 9'-10'
cord and re-do it so I can get access to my unit from the front seat.
(However, it is nice that I can "hide" the wiring and the unit behind
the arm rest flap.)  For power I am just using a cigarette lighter
converter for now - I will look at permanent solutions as I determine
usage patterns.

As noted, when you hit the "Mode" button to select between
Tuner-Changer-Single CD, in Changer, the display on the Business CD is

just "CD -" with no CD number or track number shown.  Indeed, if you
hit a disc selection (channel #) button, it comes up with "no disc".
That aside, the audio quality is very good and you have full volume
control from the steering wheel.  I do suggest balancing the volume
with your MP3 player's volume control so you won't blast yourself
switching modes.

Reinstallation is a simple reversal of the above steps.

All in all I would say that if there are no wiring surprises, this can

be done in an hour.  Plus it can all be undone very quickly with no
damage to anything.

For what its worth I have no affiliation with any of the companies
mentioned - but I do own a BMW...

 - Bill

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End of bmw-digest V9 #2174
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