Re:e28 schock replacement

["P.F. Schnettler" <paulsch@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

> Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 10:10:49 -0400
> From: "Al Slamecka" <slamecka@domain.elided>
> Subject: Need advice re: E28 Front Shock Replacement
> 
> I am considering taking on the task of replacing the front shocks on my E28
> M5 and need advice regarding the difficultly of the job and specifically
> about spring compressors.  I have read the Chilton manual on the procedure
> which seems relatively straighforward.  Are there any specific gotcha's to
> be aware of?  Does this job require any special tools, etc?

Good spring compressor is what really will make the job easier. I got a
el-cheapo pair that I could have done w/o and ended up buying a very
nice unit that uses "U" clamps with hardened carrier that rides the
compression bolt (kindof hard to describe) The one I bought was $50 bux
made by Carcraft of possibly Lisle tools.
also needed is a couple big (biggest you can find) pipe wrenchs and a
chunk of 1 1/4" pipe to slide over one of the wrench handles. You will
need the pipe wrench to either remove the threaded collar holding the
shock cartridge in the strut housing assy. Odds are you will need some
good penetrating oil to loosen those rust collector threads.

> 
> The manual states that using spring compressors is risky business and I'm
> hoping that I can get a recommendation from any listers regarding safe
> spring compressors that don't require the use of air compressors.  I have
> seen the ones that come as a pair of clamps that hook to the spring via a
> lip and can be tightened via a socket wrench.  While they don't seem too
> safe, I've considered using three or four of these clamps on a spring for
> additional safety.  I don't know the cost but they don't seem expensive.
> Any comments regarding this procedure, recommendation of products, or cost
> of these clamps?

You will end up spending the same amount on 4 clamps that you would with
the two clamp heavy duty system...or close to it. Perhaps you can rent a
good one from a local Autozone or some such place.
You need to compress the springs down at least 1/2 their height (till
the shock bearing mount starts to get loose) Here's also where it gets
tricky... w/o a air wrench you will have to find a way to keep the old
shock ram from turning while trying to get the nut loose off the bearing
mount. I have a really big pair of channel lock pliers that I used to
grip the slipery stainless steel, you might also try one of those pipe
wrenches or a vise grip pliers.
I would recommend looking at the shock mounts (take off the plastic cap
and see how many ball bearings are missing or loose and you'll have an
idea if it needs replacing.(don't want to find out in the middle of the
job that you need new mounts)
When you put it all back together use the same pliers to grip the new
shock arm up as close to the mount as possible (there should be about
2-3 inches of arm that never gets compressed into the shock body due to
spring travel limits and you really don't have to worry about possibly
putting teeth marks on the arm (it's strong steel anyway!) Oh...before I
forget, make sure you really torque down those shock cartridge body
collars. I kindof halfway torqued mine on one side due to being
interrupted mid-job by inquiriring wife and after about a week I started
hearing clunking sounds from front and...needles to say had to remove
the whols strut assy and go at it again.
(at least it only took me 1.5 hours to get it apart and back together
again, w/o air tools)

well...this is getting way long, e-mail me or call me if you need more
help.
regards,
Paul

> 
> Any recommendation regarding the best shock for this car would be
> appreciated as well.  Bilstein's appear the way to go.

Depends on the type of handling or tightness you're looking for.
I went w/BOGE gas turbos and like them alot, a bit stiffer than OEM but
not teeth rattlers like the Bilstein's can be if your springs are
suspect. but then...M5...go w/ the bilsteins!
What kind of thrust arm bushings are you running? Poly's get rid of the
brake shudder but certainly  also make the road surface a bit more
noticable...

> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Al Slamecka
> 1988 E28 M5



- -- 
- ----------------------------------------------------------
Paul Schnettler
UW-SSEC	 Univ. of Wisconsin - Space Science & Engineering Center
1225 W. Dayton St. Rm#547
Madison, WI  53706
paulsch@domain.elided
608-262-3479  fax: 608-263-6738

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