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E36 325i coupe damper renewal
- Subject: E36 325i coupe damper renewal
- From: Peter Rossato <rossato@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 10:27:00 -0400
Nick,
A timely request for information as I've just completed (rolled the car
out for a satisfactory test drive last night!) a total suspension
renewal on my '94 coupe.
First of all, the Bilstein struts come complete with the lower spring
perch and brackets for the brake fluid hose, brake pad wear sensor (left
only) and ABS sensors. Once the upper nut has been removed the stack up
of parts (upper mount, upper spring perch, upper spring seat, spring and
lower spring pad) are removed and installed on the new unit.
My car is lowered, it was so when I purchased it second hand. I stayed
with the setup, which then requires Bilstein Sport shocks. If the ride
height is unaltered, you will require HD shocks. My springs have
progressive rates so I never experienced an unduly harsh ride. Firmer
than the stock cars I have driven, but not at all "head rattling" hard.
I have been satisfied with it, but that is one man's opinion. I have no
feel for the Boge/Sachs alternative, though I would expect it to be no
worse than the original shocks.
If you intend on doing this yourself, some hints from "been there
land". The replacement of the rears is rather trivial. More effort is
spent in the removal and reinstallation of the trunk panels and
insulation than in the shock replacement itself. The shock to hub bolt
is torqued with the car on the ground in "ready to drive" condition.
The fronts are a bit more involved. Suspend the rotor with a rope
attached to a body cross member in the engine compartment then back off
the strut to steering knuckle bolts. These are torqued to about 100 NM
and two require Loctite thread sealant. You will need a good size
breaker bar. I did not wish to fuss with the strut assembly so I had a
local shop deal with the tear down and re-assembly. It was worth the
$25 strictly cash arrangement. I replaced the upper mounts on both the
front and rears. The opportunity is there and since you've invested a
fair bit of personal time or a mechanic's labor it's wise to make a
preventive replacement. I chose to go with M3 parts from the equivalent
year, though others are using 1996 or later M3 parts.
A very good primer on this job, including front control arm replacement
is to be found at:
http://bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3476
Butch Berney did a great job with this, including digital photography.
Butch or I can give you more details if you require them. He was most
helpful to me with the details.
Again, my results are a fully satisfactory ride that is precise and
firm, though not harsh. I've driven long distances in the car and never
felt uncomfortable, quite the opposite.
Peter Rossato
BMW CCA, National Capital Chapter
'94 325 is "VDERZEN" with that tight riding feeling restored!
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