<E36> Lets jack it up using Steve D's jackplate

[RonStygar@xxxxxxx]

  The following is another piece of my forthcoming lets jack it up article.  I
asked Steve D' to check it out.  His comments are within ( SD) as written. 
  Long ago Neil Maller and I were discussing jacking up/supporting E36's from
the stock jack points.  In the back and forth idea mode, Steve D' came out
with his jackplate.  Since my machinist wanted more money for my design, I
purchased one of Steve's.  I'm happy to see that Steve D' extended the length
of his jackplate 3/4 inch.  A taller vertical spacer would be nice too:).  
  STEVE D'S JACKPLATE WAS DESIGNED AND MEANT TO BE USED FOR JACKING UP ONE
WHEEL AT A TIME.  USING MULTIPLE JACKPLATES IS NOT ALLOWED.  YOU DO NOT GET
ONE WHEEL UP ON A JACKSTAND AND GO TO THE OPPOSITE SIDE AND TRY TO RAISE IT
WITH A JACKPLATE.
MAKE SURE YOU DOUBLE CHOCK THE WHEELS (BOTH SIDES).
  Some people deviating from the above, have proved this to be true.
  I use Steve D's jackplate when I want to get one wheel off the ground.

   (Looks good to me.  The jackplate was designed to replace the factory
jack for quick use in the shop using a floor jack.  Raising the car using
multiple factory jacks would also over stress the chassis inserts and the
weight of the car would (could) cause the holes to shift upward.  The new
jackplate shaft has been (conservatively) extended 3/4".  The new lift pads
will be torqued but no red loctite used as with the first batch.  Some
folks may want to have their local machine shops make up a custom pad
(different height or diameter) to better suit their floor jack.  The pad
was not changed from the first production run as only one person commented
on making this change.  SD)

   <http://www.eskimo.com/~dalus/bmw/images/jack2.gif>
   <http://www.eskimo.com/~dalus/bmw/images/jack3.gif>

  For the same reason, Craig Eller asked me to look into a low cost, low
weight jack that he could take to the track.  
  Generally when purchasing a low cost jack, if it goes low enough, it doesn't
go high enough.  If it goes high enough, it doesn't go low enough.  If you
purchase a relatively more expensive jack, it may go high and low enough, but
it is to heavy to tote to the track.  One that goes high and low enough and
can be carried to the track costs too much for most people.

   (Low cost is the key...the jacks I sell have a range of 3" to 23" and
weigh 32 lbs. Price is $825.00 which is too expensive for most folks.  For
shop use, you can't beat the Lincoln 96342 or its comparable Eagle series
(3yr instead of 5yr warranty) jack...available thru Pep Boys for under $200.
SD)

   Keep in mind that jackstand folks recommend using their jackstand in pairs
only.  If your jack does go high enough the outer wheels of the jack you are
using may come off the ground depending on the height of your jackstand.
Since the jack is parallel to the length of the car, as you raise the car, the
car moves away from the jack.  Since the front wheels of the jack are
perpendicular to this movement the top of the jack goes with the car and the
base of the jack does not.  
  To minimize this problem I shortened my low cost tru-cut jackstands which
I've added my jackstand adapter to.  I also had the seams fully welded.  Keep
in mind that jackstand folks do not recommend modifying their jackstands.  If
you go high enough, the other wheel (the one with the tire on it) on the same
side that you are jacking also comes off the ground.  
  For the track we ended up using the 3 ton Rally 9340 jack which weighs ~47
pounds.  If you remove its extender its cup accommodates Steve D's jackplate
perfectly.

   <http://www.eskimo.com/~dalus/bmw/images/jack1.gif>

  Use any of the above at your own risk.  

 RonStygar@domain.elided FLY BMW  (Marlborough, CT)
  http://www.eskimo.com/~dalus/bmw/bmw_ronstygar.html
   

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