RE: How to spend money on an <E30 M3>

[Bob Stommel <rstommel@xxxxxxxxxx>]

>Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1998 01:44:40 -0400 (EDT)
>From: terhune@domain.elided (Mary Ann Terhune)
>Subject: How to spend money on an <E30 M3>
>
>Finally, I am going to have a little bit of money to spend on my car.  Just
>wanted input from E30 M3 owners on what is worth the money.  I ran into
>about $500 and need a way to spend it. I think a JC chip is one of the
>first things, right?? From there I don't know, cam gear, airbox, BL/SS,
>susp. parts??  I already have an oil pan baffle. I also would like to hear
>where the best prices are at.  I realize that the most important aspect of
>the car is the driver.  Hopefully going to my first drivers school in Oct.
>at Mid-Ohio to work on the driving part.  Any thoughts on what to get is
>appreciated.
>
>TIA
>
>Charley
>88 M3 stock-hopefully not for long..:-)

Charley:

I recently posted a message on things to do to an E30 M3 for the track, but
I didn't save a copy of it.  Maybe somebody can find it in the archives.
Collectively, they totaled more than $500 anyway.

Don't do anything to the car until you've taken it to a few driver schools
(or autocrosses).  The E30 M3 was born for the track (unlike the E36 M3,
which was born for the street and then converted to the track).  After some
track events, the stock suspension will be the limiting factor (assuming
you're already using good Z-rated street tires).  The single best upgrade
you can do to the car for around $500 is to replace the OEM shocks with
Bilstein Sports.  It's as if Bilstein invented sport valving just for this
car.  Keep the rest of the suspension stock.  After that, I'd replace the
chip with one from Conforti (close to 220 hp at peak rpm) and install the
Euro airbox/intake (stock from 1990-on).  Next, the tires will be the weak
link.  Some sticky tires just for track events will make a big difference.
These few changes will make a huge difference in how the car performs.

Then, once you've had those first few tastes of track speed and the
"addiction" has set in, there are tons of aftermarket performance parts
still available for the car.  I wouldn't bother with them until you're in
the upper run groups at driver schools and  it's impossible to improve your
lap times without more expensive parts.  (I recently shaved a full two
seconds off my lap times at my home track just from suspension changes, but
that't a story for another day.) 

As a final note, there are several "must do" safety items for this car:
(1) If you start to do driver schools regularly, you should replace the
front control arms every two years (more often for racing); use the
aluminum ones, not the OEM steel ones, (2) check the front subframe
crossmember for cracks around the motor mounts, and (3) find all the
press-fit valves on the engine and permanently seal them with liquid steel
or epoxy (your engine doesn't like sudden vacuum leaks at 7500 rpm).  

Hope this helps.  Now go play in traffic.  ;-)

Bob Stommel
Hoosier Chapter
Indianapolis
95 M3 LTW, 88 M3           

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