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<E36 M3>Engine and suspension mods for M3

I encroached upon my secretary to type this out for me, because 
one-arm-or-not, I had to get in my $ .02 worth.

The recent thread asking Scott Hung about his long list of mods  has focused on 
HP mods.  He and I agree:  The airbox, K&N filter, and chip are the 
first mods.  Then a good, free flowing muffler.  Although the 
Supersprint is more expensive than some of the others on the market, 
I think that it is still the best option, in terms of fit, looks, 
quality, and most importantly, exhaust flow.  To go to the FULL 
Supersprint exhaust system (Headers, Dr. Gas syncronizing crossover, 
interchangeable race/street center section, and the muffler, is a 
fairly expensive proposition.I think that it is WELL worth the money
but is not the "next step.") We are working on a MUCH freer flowing 
airbox, so for now, I would agree with Scott that "gutting" the stock 
air box and adding the Ram Air is the most cost effective thing to 
do.  A bored out throttle body is helpful, but $300 to $400 for only 
a small improvement.

Scott offered, however, that until one starts spending 
pretty big bucks, the BIGGEST bang for the buck will come from 
SUSPENSION mods.  I agree. He said...

... As for suspension, you can keep the ride and
improve turning by changing sway bars from Racing Dynamic or
Dinan and leaving the shocks /spring alone which will cost
bucks not only for parst, but also install costs. 
Both available from Bravarian  Autosport around $350.

These are my recs for "cheap mods." 
Scott H.-95M3

Here is my imput...
As for suspension mods, I agree that the first thing to do is to buy 
and install the Racing Dynamics sway bars (my choice.  Dinana bars are barely 
larger than stock).   They can also be purchased thru BMP.  they are 
adjustable,  but should be set "full soft" at first.  You can get 
some pretty quriky handling with the big guys if you are not careful. 
I went full stiff on the rears, and hand a very big overstear 
problem.  Fun, but not too good for times on a wet track.

 I would ALSO reccomend lowering springs.  It will NOT neccesarily
bring the car down  too low.  It will bring the ride height down to 
the level the Euro M3's are to start with.  The US requires that our 
bumpers be at a certain height, and the easiest way to do that was to 
raise the spring height.  Bring it back down again, I say.  Your car 
will still ride ok, it will corner with much less body roll, and it 
will look cool.  If you need ride height come winter time, it isn't 
THAT big a deal to switch out springs in the fall and spring.

I will ague vociferously in favor of the H&R springs.  They are the 
ONLY company that has been willing to really let you know what you 
are getting.  The construction, the amount of ride height lowering, 
and the weight of the springs are all disclosed. Eibach, Interax, etc 
are more closed mouthed about their weights.  Moreover, I don't think 
that they are constructed as well or as thuroughly engineered.

The H&R M3 sport lowering springs, #29 910-M3 are 200 lbs per inch
working rate front, and 380 lbs rear.  They lower the car appox (varies from car to car) 
1", front and back.

The #29 910 DTM-M3 Racing lowering springs are 345 front, and 515 
rear, and lower the car 2" front and 1.25 rear.  They are VERY stiff, 
harsh, and unforgiving.  Not recommended for street use.

For reference, the stock M3 springs are 115 lbs front, and 335 rear.

Now if you REALLY want to make your car handle, try the H&R 
Coilovers.  Adjustable ride height is one advantage, but the ride is 
unbelievable!  Not harsh, but firm.   You feel everything, but the 
dampening is so good that there is no harsh feedback.  But, I won't 
tell you that they are a "cheap mod."  Plan on spending in the area 
of $2500 to $3000 for these German Engineering wonders.  When you are 
ready, though, they are the way to go.  When I get a chance, I will 
do a full write up on the H&R coilovers, as I previously promised.  
Meantime, direct your questions to Roland Graef, at H&R/Nuespeed.  
1-805-388-8111.

You can buy the H&R's from Anthony Springer at BMP, 
1-800-648-7278.  I am not sure of the current price, but plan on 
spending about $300 or less.

I also recommend that you replace at least the REAR shocks.  The rear 
end softness is the cause of the M3's imfamous understear.  The 
factory put it there to protect you from yourself, but when you are 
ready to let the back step out abit, you will want to dial out that 
awful push.  The sway bars are step one, then the springs, then the 
shocks.  The Bilstein Sport shocks for the 92 or earlier 325 fit 
perfectly.  I think the shocks are about $175 for the pair, but that 
is a real wild guess.

The FRONT struts are a problem, as the only way to replace them is
to either go with the H&R or Bilstein  coilovers, or utilize your stock
strut housings,  and do a hybrid stock/Koni or stock/Bilstein strut.  
I "hear" that Bilstein is coming out with a strut, but they have been 
saying that for two years.  If you want the hybrids,  I recommend the 
Konis being built for TC Kline Racing.  Ask for Carl Stewart at 
1-614-771-7744.  They cost about $400 each, plus core.  All who use 
them find them to be outstanding.

One last thing, be sure to replace your gearbox oil with Redline MTL. 
 It will be much smoother, and less notchy when it is cold.  I Just 
got a gallon of it, with a handy little pump, and will be changing 
over gearbox oil for anyone who wants it at the Laguna Drivers school 
on Nov 2-3.  

There are lots more tricks, but since "cheap" was the perameter, I 
will stop there.  Oh yeah, the carbon fiber glove box insert that 
Milos is selling was easy to install, and REALLY dresses up the 
otherwise pretty stark M3 dash.  At $30, it qualifies as "cheap."


regards to all,

Carl

Carl Buckland
1000 Boston Bldg
Nine Exchange Place
Salt Lake City, Utah  84111
801-531-6686
Fax 531-6690
E Mail [email protected]