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Lets install the BMP/VDO 3 gauge panel in my 328is coupe (build date 4-1-96) p2

     You now have the two sending unit wires to get into the engine
compartment. Pull back the passenger side upper right side carpet and you
will see where the main power wires ((big red ones)(not the 1st Infantry
Division)) go into the engine compartment. I snaked the sending unit wires
through this point. The oil pressure sending unit mounts in place of the oil
pressure switch which is mounted at the rear of the oil filter housing
assembly. The oil temperature sending unit mounts in place of the oil drain
plug at the right rear side of the oil pan. (left/right, front/rear is
relative to you sitting in the cockpit) To install the oil pressure sending
unit and route the wire remove the alternator cooling duct via the hose clamp
at the alternator. When you reinstall at the press on end, (the end opposite
the clamp end) make sure the lower flap enters the opening. Plug the hole at
the alternator cooling duct inlet. If you don't, you will definitely drop
something in it. Remove the air cleaner assembly via the two 10mm nuts and
clips. Loosen and release the top oil filter assembly cap with a 36 mm socket
(Installation torque value is listed on the cap.) The oil will drain into the
sump. Now when you remove the oil pressure switch it will not drain
elsewhere. Remove the oil pressure switch connector and remove the switch via
a 24mm socket/wrench. Install the sending unit on to the adapter so that the
terminals are perpendicular to the mounting bolt axis. Install the oil
pressure sending unit/adapter assembly with the terminals facing up. The oil
filter housing gets in the way if you face them down. I was unable to
properly torque the sending unit adapter. There is no room for the torque
wrenches I have. I torqued with a wrench and my experience. If you don't ever
plan to remove this gauge package cut the plug off the oil pressure switch
plug wire assembly, attach the appropriate Stakon type connector and connect
to the sending units WK terminal. Be careful, the sending units wire mounting
nuts like to fall down. I never did find one that fell. VDO sent me four
replacements when requested. If you do want to preserve the connector, tap-in
to the plug wire and attach to the sending unit. Torque the oil filter cap.
Now we have to get the oil pressure sending unit wire from the right side to
the left side sending unit. If you have other wires to run for other things
you are doing , do it now. The first time took me two hours to get from the
right to left side when installing my garage door opening control to make it
look right. Depending on your standards you can do this many ways. This is
how I did it. Proper dressing of the wires is assumed. Once into the engine
compartment I followed the large red wire going up to the point where you
jump start your vehicle. The oil pressure sending unit wire now goes along
the finely ribbed tube going to the compartment above the rear of the engine.
Entrance into this compartment is via the large ribbed rubber tube. Unsnap
the compartment tabs. Take a 1/8 inch aluminum wire and route it through this
tube. Tape the sending unit wire to this and pull it trough into the
compartment. A long #2 Phillips screw driver is helpful in establishing this
path. Exit out the other side using the same method. I ty-wrapped to the
cruise control cable which goes down along the big red wire, I assume going
to the starter. I then headed toward the installed sending unit and attached
to the G terminal. Make sure you allow slack for engine torque movement. If
you now start your vehicle the oil pressure gauge should indicate
approximately 58 lb. cold and your instrument cluster oil pressure warning
lamp should go out . Once warmed up (~10minute) the gauge indicates ~ 10 lb.
at idle. With revs it approaches the 58 lb point. Undo the 17mm oil pan drain
plug and drain the oil. Install the oil temperature sending unit in its
place, torqueing to 26 ft-lb. Do not get caught up in the moment. (REPLACE
THE ENGINE OIL!!!). The oil temperature sending unit wire goes down along the
right fender-well. Be aware of the exhaust header pipes. Slit the open end of
the female tab connector insulation, or remove its insulation completely and
attach to the sending unit wire. Connect to the sending unit. If you now
start your vehicle do not be alarmed that the gauge looks like it is not
working. It takes ~10minutes for the engine to warm up. (Interesting). Once
warmed the gauge should indicate ~200 degrees. Replace the panels and stuff :
Done! WHAT A DETAIL!!! The above is just a guide. Keep in mind if you do this
with the battery connected you have to be extremely careful. I, first hook up
my SEARS 8 ampere battery charger via my diode protected, fused remote charge
hookup.(Will write this up, when I get a chance) I then disconnect the
negative battery lead in the trunk. The charger keeps everything alive
supplying enough current to accommodate door opening, interior lights etc.
Now if you accidentally screw up, you limit the current flow to the charger
output, or the fused amount. As always, feel free to do it your way.