[Prev][Next][Index][Thread]

Clutch Job

        How to replace the clutch in a BMW 1983 528e.  
Or, how Larry spent his Christmas vacation & $350.00 in parts.

My 83 528e is still going strong, with 151K miles on it.  The
throw out bearing started to grind and make a lot of noise.  I
could almost live with that, but I could also hear the pilot bearing
above the engine noise.  That started to concern me.  Not being
able to stand the thought of getting someone else to do it, I 
pulled the transmission and replaced the clutch myself.  I thought
this might make good FAQ bait.

The shop says that this is a 7 hour job.  I can believe that
if you've done it 3 or 4 times.  I spent two full days doing
this job.  I have a very comfortable garage, complete with machine
shop (mill/lathe/welders), and air tools. (and a refigerator with
Xmas cookies and beer :)

PARTS:

First, if you're going to replace the clutch, buy the parts mail order.
Pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing and clutch plate 
are standard.  I would also plan on the Guibo, and the plastic 
fulcrum point that the slave cylinder leverages off of.  Mine was broken, 
and was the reason that the release bearing fell apart. 
In any event it's a $2.00 part that can only be replaced by 
pulling the clutch.  I replaced mine with a custom made brass piece
(convienent having a lathe).  BMW also recommends that most of the 
bolts & nuts you remove be replaced.
To wit; the 6 Nuts that connect the drive shaft and Transmission
	the 6 bolts that hold the pressure plate on
	the 6 copper nuts that hold the exhaust to the header
	the 4 nuts that connect the rear drive shaft to final drive
I have had VERY good response from Maxmillians (see the FAQ) for
parts direct from Germany at good prices. 

TOOLS:

Besides the usual, you'll need to make or buy a Pilot Bearing Puller.
I've seen these advertised by Bavarian Auto Sports 1(800)535-2002 for
$30.00.  I made mine by machine down an 8" long 3/8" bolt.  By putting
a lip on the end, and then putting a 3lb brass "slammer" on it, I
was able to work it out (hold the slammer at an angle, and work your
way around the bearing).

A clutch plate alignment tool is a good idea.  I machined one
from Delrin.  23mm body with a 12mm stub for the pilot bearing
(less a few thousands).

You'll also need a Torx socket.  This is a female socket, I think
it's the E14 size.  This is for the bolts from hell that connect
the transmission to the engine.

Safety glasses are nice to keep the crude from falling in
your eyes... (My car had lots of crude)

METHOD:

Removal

First, using 4 jackstands, get the car in the air far enough to
work under(make sure it's solid).  Remove the wheels.

Disconnect battery.

Put a hydraulic jack under the engine, use a block of wood
to prevent it from crushing the oil pan.

Remove the exhaust system completely.  I took the oppurtunity to
recoat the O2 sensor threads. (13mm socket, and 15mm socket)

Remove the shield that covers the drive shaft (10mm socket)

With the transmission in gear, and a partners foot on the brake,
loosen the 17mm nuts holding the rear drive shaft to the final drive.
These are tightened teutonically tight.  A long spanner & hammer worked.

Remove the 19mm nuts holding the Guibo and tranny together.  Air drive
really helps here, other wise, put it in gear and loosen all before 
removing any.

Remove rear drive nuts and the center bearing bolts.

To pull the drive shaft out of the tranny was teutonic task.  What
worked for me was wrapping nylon webbing around the drive shaft and
then using my foot to push the driveshaft off.  This was an inovation
I was really proud of.  

Remove the slave cylinder and tie it back up in the wheel well with
a coat hanger, or a $.10 welding rod :).

Remove the sensors from the bottom of the tranny - mark/remember
which one goes in which hole.

Remove the 17mm nuts and 8mm allen head bolts that hold the starter
motor.  Yes, it is possible to jam your hands in there.  I loosened 
a couple of heater hoses and the air intake to get more room. A 5"
extension on a 17mm socket worked well.  

Remove the 10mm bolts that hold the lower sheet metal on the bell housing.
While the crude and radiator fluid are idiopathically dropping on
your face, use the portable phone to request "Sink the Bismark" from
the local country station.

Put a second hydraulic jack under the transmission and remove the
rear mounts (13mm socket).