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FAQ part 10/10 (finally!)

Section 19.7:	Changing service indicator light batteries

A:	(by Rick Kjeldsen:[email protected])

This a quick summary of how to change the batteries for the service
interval processor on E30 325's.  I don't know how much is different
with the 5/7 series, but I have a feeling is basically the same.  You can
also find an article on this is the November '91 Roundel, but what follows
is from my experience.

The processor is on a board mounted in the instrument cluster.  The
batteries are soldered to the board, and a dealer wants ~$200 because
he replaces the whole thing.

To replace the batteries, first remove the instrument cluster from the
dash.  On the E30, that means first removing the plastic trim below
the cluster (at the bottom of the dash just above the steering column)
That exposes the bottom screws for a trim piece that wraps around the
cluster (couple of screws on the bottom, couple up under the "eyelid")
That, in turn, exposes the screws for the cluster itself.  There are
two (I think) on the bottom, and two on black tabs that stick forward
from the top of the cluster.  Remove them and pull the cluster forward
and out.  Take a good look before you unplug the wiring, there are
4 or 5 plugs you have to take out.  Once you've seen it, you won't have
trouble getting it back correctly, they are color and shape coded
pretty well.

Now set the cluster face down on a table (careful not to scratch the
plastic face!)  On the back, there are several (about 8-10) screws,
most around the edge, with one or two in the middle.  Take them out,
and the whole back will come off, and you will be able to see the
board (It's the only board in there, along the bottom and goes
most of the way from one end to the other).  Remove the board.. to
do that, you have to remove two things. One is the engine code plug
which plugs in to the board from the opposite side (the outside of
the instrument cluster).  It is a plastic rectangle about 1"x1"x.5".
You have to press a tab to unclip it and pull it out.  The other thing
holding the board is a plastic piece that is held in by one screw.
Take the board out, and you will see the batteries in the middle.

Mine were two NiCad AA cells with something like "Varta 500 RST" on
them.  These are top of the line NiCads.  You can replace them with
standard replacements (e.g. Radio Shack AA NiCads), or if you have
a good electronics store nearby, order them from Varta.  Either one
will have the same voltage, so work the same, but the Varta's will
have more capacity, so last longer when you pull out the car
battery, and perhaps not die as soon either.  (The Varta's have 600
mAmp hours capacity vs 450 for the Radio Shack AAs.  Both are 1.2V).

The old batteries are held on by tabs that are welded to the battery
on one side, and soldered to the board on the other.  Remove the
solder with a solder-sucker or solder wick (again, see Radio Shack),
straighten the pins and remove the batteries.
Be sure to remember the polarity of the batteries for when you
reinstall them.  The original batteries are marked +/-, but the board
isn't.

You have to rig up a way to solder the new batteries to the board.
You can take the old mounting tabs off the old batteries, and remount
them to the new ones, but that is tough.  You can buy batteries
with mounting tabs, the  Varta's may come with them, I'm not sure.
The Radio Shack tabs won't mount directly to the board, I cut them
to fit.  You could also rig up a wire to go from the tab to the
board.  Anyway, take a look at it.  It's pretty easy to figure
something out.

One warning, on my board the tabs were soldered to the board
at one point on one end of each battery, and at two on the other
end.  It turns out that on the end with two connections, one
of them is just for strength and has no electrical properties.
I just soldered to the one, but if you aren't sure which is which
by looking at the board, You can solder a small wire between the two
holes and just mount the battery to one.  My batteries originally had
a small amount of glue holding them to the board.  When I replaced
them, I replaced it with some silicone gasket material to help keep
the batteries from vibrating loose.

All that sounds complicated, but it's really not if you have a little
soldering experience.  The only things you have to be careful of are
to not crack the board while you are playing with it (not a big deal,
it is pretty rugged) and when you solder, don't create any bridges
(shorts) between leads on the board.  That's easy if you just don't
use too much solder.  It's probably a good idea to charge up the
batteries before you install them if you can.

Then just reverse the steps to reassemble the cluster and reinstall
it in the dash.  Don't forget to put back in the engine code plug!
You will have to reset the service interval indicator after you
are done, of course.

Good luck, if you have any questions about it, send me a note.

UPDATES:
You might want to just run 3 wires from the instrument
cluster to a convenient location to mount the batteries so in 4 years
when it happens again you can easily replace the batteries.

Use CHARGED NiCads ... some boards will NOT charge up a completely
dead NiCd battery, and you'll think you need a new board ..

PS: I found this out when the local dealer was starting to change
    the batteries v. the board .. they told me my instructions didn't
    work .. so I came down and found out that *some* SIS bards will
    NOT work unless the NiCd batts. are charged *before* install

    And *yes* they will now change the batteries, saving their
    customers mucho $$$ .. over changing an SIS board

==============================
Section 19.8:	Erratic blinkers

A:	(by Rick Kjeldsen:[email protected])

(Editor's note: The following is based on an E30, but may apply to
others)

>Within the last 2 weeks, my left side indicators have been misbehaving.
>Flashes real fast in other words..... I got out and checked the bulbs,
>all of them work. The problem does not persist - it settles after some
>indeterminate amount of time... Guess its a bad contact at some place

That is a classic symptom for a bad contact  between the wiring
harness and the front blinker assembly.  You can get at it by removing
the plastic cover in the engine compartement that covers the back of
the headlights and reaching down into the bumper.  You will find a
plug with a rubber boot that plugs into the back of the blinker.  Pull
it off and on a few times to temporarily fix the problem.  For a more
permenent fix, clean the contacts and put some dielectric grease in
there before you plug it back together.  (you can get dielectric
grease at most auto-parts stores)

=============================
Section 19.9:	Replacing OBC bulbs

A:	(by Mike Whitley: [email protected])

Alot of people have complained about the backlight on the E30 onboard computer.
When I had a 325is, the lights burned out.  Replacing the little panel or even
just the bulbs is an easy job.  Saves you $70 or $80 as well compared to
letting a dealer do it.  A quick summary follows.

Access the computer... this involves first taking out the glove box, and right
side dash board cover.  Everything is held in place by push pins, they just
twist and pull out.

Now, you need a socket wrench, with a short handle and a very small socket.  I
can't remember how big... anyway, use the wrench to undo the nuts that hold
the computer in place on the dash baord.  You won't be able to see them just
feel around and you will find them.  Once the nuts have been removed, the
computer will slide out of the dash towards the seats.

On the side of the computer is a small white panel.  This is the back light
bar.  Pry it out with a small screwdriver or fingernail and pop in the new one.
If spending $25 or $30 for this seems like a waste of money to you, desolder
the dead bulbs and solder in new ones for about $2.00.  They may not have the
exact same wattage though.  If the computer push buttons have also stopped
lighting up, the bulb for that is located in the back.  Twist it out and pop in
a new one.  (You remembered to pick one up at your dealer right?)

Reverse the installation instructions and voila!  You are done.  The whole
thing shouldn't take more than two hours.  Less if you are quick.

	
	(by Steve Fox:  [email protected])

Alternate method:

Remove radio (easy).

Pop top switches above radio (easy).

Remove two phillips screws at top of center
console.  They will be visible through the
recently vacated switch holes (easy).

Remove two phillips screws at bottom of
center console, just under bottom edge (easy).

Pull center console forward on the right
edge exposing the business side of OBC (easy,
but gently, not much distance needed).

Remove top right nut that secures OBC (easy).

Trim pointless plastic interfering with removal of light
bar (easy, makes next replacement even easier).

Pull out light bar with needle nose and replace
with new unit (easy).

Assemble in reverse order of disassembly (easy).

I did this in 20 minutes the first time.  The other method
on this list (through the glove box) sounds great too but I
could not contort my fingers enough to remove the four OBC
nuts.  Local dealer wants about $80 for this procedure.

=============================
Section 19.10:	Power Windows

A:	(by Rick Kjeldsen: [email protected])

The most common cause of a flaky power window is just the switch.
The contacts in the switch get pitted and carbon buildup, and will
become erratic.  You can clean them pretty easily.  Pop out the
switch (it may be easier to pop up the shifter boot (manual xmission)
and push the switch out from below), remove it from it's plug.
Disassembly is easy, the bottom slides out of the case formed by the
top and sides.  Watch where the parts come from as you take it appart.
Clean the contacts, clean and lub the rubbing surfaces LIGHTLY with a
grease or white-lub, and reassemble.  Takes about 5 minutes.
After many miles the contacts may become so pitted that you need to
replace the whole switch.


	(by Chuck Huston [email protected])

>the driver side power windows is stuck. all the other three windows
>work. is it a motor problem ? it is something i can fix or check to
>figure out the problem.
>89'325i

- - -----
I have an '89 325i that had the "same" problem....here's the procedure:

(Assuming that the other window works, which eliminates one electrical
possibility)...

1)  Swap the window control switches on the console around the gear shift
lever.  They can be easily
pryed up and unplug.  If it works after that, replace the switch.

2)  If it's not the switch, check the motor itself by taking off the inside
part of the door to gain access.  You remove the 3 screws that hold on the
door handle (one is behind the black plastic cover at the top of the
hand-hold, and you pry this cover off to get at it....the other two are
under the arm-rest part).  Remove the little black part surrounding the door
opening lever (it slides BACK, then off), unscrew the lock pin cover, then
carefully pop off the inner door (plastic connectors on the inner bottom and
sides) before lifting it off.  Last, carefully peel back the inner plastic
to get at the bottom area where the motor is.  [all of this is discussed in
Bentley].

3)  Check the connector to the motor (it's obvious) for power with a tester
while you actuate the controller.  If no power, my condolences (check
manual, etc. for electrical troubleshooting).

4)  If the motor is getting power, remove it for test/replacement.  Remove
the nuts (a few) to get the motor/window bracket assembly out.  You will
need Torx keys to get the motor off the bracket.  Before replacing it (I got
one from a salvage yard in Rancho Cordova for about $140 - check the Roundel
for ads) reconnect it to the system and try it again.  The first time I went
throught this, the motor was simply "jammed" and I reinstalled it.  (it must
have jammed because of weakness, however, because it eventually died for
good about 3 months later!)

5)  To reinstall - the "trick" is getting the all stupid bracket wheels in
the appropriate tracks (there are 3).  FIRST put the two wheels into the
appropriate tracks that are ON THE WINDOW.  Then, if you remove the door
track (you can't see it, but the bolts stick through at the middle of the
door) you can put the BRACKET on the wheel and maneuver things back to where
they were before installing it, then the motor.

6)  As they say, assembly is the reverse of disassembly.


	(by Rob Shively: [email protected])

I had the same problem with passenger side window on my 325e last spring.  The
window would go down but would not go back up with out assisting the motor
by pushing the window up.  It got to the point it would not go up anymore.

The first thing I did was pull the track and motor out of the door.  I then
removed the motor from the track and tested it.  It seemed to work OK.  The
track seemed a little sticky so I gave it a good dose of DW40 and shot a little
in the motor as well.  Reassembled and adjusted the whole works and gave
myself a pat on the back for saving $200.  The window worked for nearly 2
weeks.

So I took the track and motor out of the door again.  This time I use white
lithium grease, from a spray can, to lubricate the track.  Reassembled the unit
and tested it.  I looked like the motor was shot which lacked the power
to push the window up.

Since I thought the motor was junk I took to my shop and took it apart.
I had to pull the center shaft out of the housing.  On the bottom of the shaft
there is a ball that sits in a cup at the bottom of the housing.  The ball is
held in place by metal fingers.  The cup and ball were full of crud so I used
DW40 and steel wool it clean them up.  Next I packed the cup full of lithium
grease and attempted to push the ball/shaft back in place.  The finger kept
bending in under the ball.  I ended up bending the fingers out enough so
the ball would fit into the cup.   This cause the ball/shaft to be loose and
no longer firmly held in place.  I reassembled the  motor and put the track
and motor back into the car.

The motor is louder since the shaft can now move up and down but it is still
working with no problems after almost a year.

I am sure that someone else on the net might know the correct method of
reassembling the motor so the shaft is held in place.

I did seal the motor around the top with silicon caulk and I had to cut the
wires to the motor to get it all apart.  I think it took less than 2 hours
including a trip the hardware store.

==============================
Section	19.11:	Problems with key panel

A: 	(Ben: uunet!ux4.cso.uiuc.edu!bthongsa)

> On my '83 745i, the computer key panel will not light up.  The battery on
> the car ran down and the car was started with a battery charger set to
> start mode using 50 amps.  What in the heck did I kill, and how do I fix
> this?  I have electronic soldering skills, but no schematic or clue where
> to start.

Sounds like you blew the OBC fuse.  The early versions actually consisted
of two units, the keypad unit, and a main unit that is hidden behind the
driver's kick panel on the 745i (at least it is on an '84).  There's
a small 2amp or so fuse inside of the main unit.  Pull off the speaker
cover on the driver's kick panel, fish out the control box (there's
probably more than one, it's been a while since I did this) and open
it up.  There should be a small glass tube fuse somewhere on the board.
Usually, this fuse blows when a voltage surge occurs.

Of course, there's also a fuse for the OBC in the main fuse box.  You might
want to also check that first, before digging in the interior.


- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chapter 20.0: Performance Modifications

Section 20.1:	Experience with a Dinan chip

A: (by Don Eilenberger: [email protected])

1. Low end torque.. as much or more than before.. is LOTS smoother
coming up the revs, so...
2. Idle is if anything improved (see next..)
3. Fuel economy... very hard to tell since on 10/1 they put the crap
oxy-gas in effect in NJ for the winter. Last year as soon as this
garbage started, my avg MPG (by the computer) went from around 21
to 18.. same this year. The reason I can't say exactly is that I
only had 2 tanks of gas go though it before I put the chip in (crap
gas that is..), and it seemed about the same effect as last year.
Since I put the chip in, I'm on my second tank.. the first gave
me about 19.5mpg.. the tank now is indicating about the same, maybe
a bit higher.. but was lots of high-speed driving so far (some
around 70-80mph for an hour or so - 6AM on the Garden State
Race(Parkway)Track..

The crap gas also effects the idle.. and so far since the chip has
been in, the idle is damn near good.. which last year I couldn't
say. I have been using Shell gas, which is supposed to contain techron,
which improves idle anyway.. so, your call on this.. it sure ain't
worse.
4. Hot/cold starting - seems about the same. Starts fairly easily
hot or cold, with a bit of a stumble the first 10 seconds after
a cold start...
General running is MUCH improved.. I do tend to give it full
throttle fairly often, since it seems to REALLY LIKE this
now.. very smooth right to where the automatic shifts it
at full throttle (about 6,200 rpm or so.. exact is hard to
tell since it happens pretty quickly). Had some passengers in
the car this AM - 13 year olds - whose comment was "wow.. this
car rules!".. so, take it from there!

I like the chip - and what is interesting is I found my copy of
the original sales brouchure for the car, which includes the
528 and M5 - and was looking at the fuel requirements for all of
them.. the 528 and M5 "REQUIRE" premium.. the 535 was supposed to
run on 87 octane.. so it looks to me like they had retarded the
piss out of the timing for the 3.5l engine. Dinan requires that
you use 91 octane with the chip "or pinging or knock may occur"..
no problem for me, since I always use premium for the extra
detergents.

==============================
Section 20.2:	Air filters

A:	(by John Coffin: )

I must agree the K&N air filter is the easiest and best(for the cost)
performance addition I have ever done to a car.  The K&N seem to add .5 mpg
(measured over a month) and eliminate the ping on hard acceleration.


	(by Rick Kjeldsen: [email protected])

The K&N filter in my 325es (stock engine with Dinan chip and 3.25 diff)
gave me an extra 3-5 mph on the front straight at Lime Rock.  I was
pleasently supprised!

==============================
Section 20.3:	Why can't BMW come up with the best chip?

A:	(by Jim Conforti: [email protected])

 First you have to understand that to sell a car in the US, it must
  be "certified" by the EPA and/or CARB as meeting US/Calif. emissions
  standards for

  1) Emissions performance (FTP test)

  2) Emissions longevity (50k mile test)

  To meet the FTP *AND* assure that your cat will last 50k miles,
  some *compromises* occur in the fuel and ignition mapping ..

  If the car is also tuned for *economy* (as in the eta motors) even
  more power is lost ..

  The basic fact is that the best emissions occur at a low fuel/air
  and the best power occurs at a richer fuel/air ratio ..

  The balance and the compromises come into effect when you have to
  account for all 3 factors ..

  Power, Economy, Emissions ...

  Now, through in "bad gas" and you have slightly retarded spark timing

  The knock sensored cars are better at this game, but the "base maps"
  are still slightly retarded from those of a car which would always be
  *assured* the finest 94+ octane fuel ..

  Now, if you don't HAVE to pass the Emissions Warranty (50k) test, and
  you only modify points outside of the FTP procedure .. you can make
  a chip that "passes" but is REALLY significantly *dirtier* and also
  MAY have better overall performance ...

  Some aftermarket guys are getting away with this (for now)

==============================
Section 20.4:	Custom brake lines

A:	(by richard welty: [email protected])

if you're going to do braided lines, consider a complete conversion
to aircraft style single flares.  you will need the following tools:

1) tubing cutter (available from lots of places; Eastwood has a decent one)
2) flaring tool (The Rol Aire from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty is very nice)
3) tubing bender (the one from Eastwood works well)

for hard lines, use 3/16" seamless Bundyweld tubing, available from better
auto parts stores.  avoid seamed and copper tubings at all costs.

for braided lines, the premade lines from Pegasus are good, tested, and
available in various lengths.

you will need adapters to fit to the calipers and master cylinders; the
thread should be M10x1.0.  the adapter screws into the caliper/master cylinder
and presents 37 degree AN flares on the other side; you then plumb the
entire system with 37 degree flares.  the only metric flares remaining
in the system will be the ones where you've put in the adapters.
oh, right.  you'll need adapters for any proportioning valve that might
be in the system, although if you're replumbing to this extent then
a nice adjustable proportioning valve like the Tilton that Pegasus carries
is a nice add on; bolt it to the floor next to the shift lever and
route the rear brake line along the center tunnel.

and this is all legal in an IT car.


Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Company
201 West Truslow Ave.,
Fullerton, Ca 92632
714-870-7551
- - -----
Brake flaring tools:

Rol Aire Imperial: 212 FB
Rol Aire for tight quarters: 507FB
- - -----------------

The Eastwood Company
580 Lancaster Avenue, Box 3014
Malvern Pennsylvania 19355-0714
800-345-1178
- - -----
Brake Tubing Bender (3/16"): 2681
- - -----------------

==============================
Section 20.5:	Differentials

A:	(by Harry Sidhu: [email protected])

Various diffs that you can use in place of the 2.91 or 2.93 (ETA 325):
3.25 used in 9/82-9/84 533i,535i,635csi; 528e 3/87-12/87; 524td all.
3.46 used in 635csi 9/84 onwards; 528eA 3/87-12/87
3.73 325i,is 9/87 onwards
3.90 and 4.10 are also available but useless unless you have a 200hp motor
with a 9000rpm limit.
All the above are referred to as "6 cylinder rear loading".
The above 5 and 6 series diffs are identical to the 3 series diffs except
for the axle flanges (slight difference in diameter) and the rear
aluminium cover (different mounting point) both of these can be quite
easily transferred off your existing diff. The flanges can be pried off
with a large screwdriver or pry bar and the rear cover is fastened using
8 bolts. These are available for about 1/2 the price of used 325i diffs.
The only problem is that relatively few of these were limited slip so
whoever you are buying it from, make sure you let them know that you will
only accept a limited slip and one that will fit.
Remember that all these limited slips only have a 25% LS which translates
to 45ft.lbs breaking torque, to get more you have to go to the
aftermarket.
In my case they first shipped me a 84 318i diff. and then a 3.45 side
loading diff before finally getting it right. (3.73 LSD).
If anyone is interested, I have pictures and applicatons of all the BMW
diffs that I can fax.

==============================
Section 20.6:	MCU switch settings

A:	(by Harry Sidhu: [email protected])

For all those involved in the quest for higher velocities, here are the
settings for the MCU switch. Please remember that the settings are
affected by the gas you use, what kind of carbon buildup you have on
valves/injectors etc. so the settings I use may not work at all for you or
may work better(hopefully).

The switch in question is light or dark blue (depending on year of
manufacture) and to reach it you must open up the MCU and unfold the 2
boards in there. One of the boards has this on one of the sides. It is
cylindrical and about 1/2'' in length. From the stock setting which is
with the notch straight up, it can only be turned clockwise to achieve 6
additional settings which are listed below.

1) Stock
2) 3% increase in injector open time, no timing change
3) 3% decrease in injector open time, no timing change
4) 6% increase in injector open time, no timing change
5) 3% increase in injector open time, 2.78 degrees retard
6) 3% decrease in injector open time, 2.78 degrees retard
7) 6% increase in injector open time, 2.78 degrees retard

I am currently using setting #2 with the CO on the air flow meter turned
up a few turns (4). Next, I plan to mess with the spring in the air flow
meter and also increase fuel pressure (soon as I find the right
regulator).

The retard setting are useful for people with aftermarket chips who have
pinging or detonation problems.

Remember your optimum settings could differ and make sure to note the
stock settings so you can go back in case you start blowing black smoke
out of the exhaust (too rich).

Again, these procedures are not looked favorably upon by most people.