Re: e36 strut replacement

[C2slayman@xxxxxxx]

Hi bdup,

> Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 19:07:31 -0400
> From: "bdup@domain.elided" <bdup@domain.elided>
> Subject: e36 strut replacement
> 
> after several days of bumpy driving, i went to my mechanic and found out
> the left front
> strut needs to be replaced on my 3i8i convertible. he quoted me $195 ea.
> 
How do you know the right strut isn't bad too?  Is the left leaking and the 
right not?  Or does the left bounce more than the right?
 
>(suggested
> 
> that i replace both of them, of course), $40 for wheel  alignment, and $300
> for labor.
> ouch.
> 
You can replace just one strut in theory.  But the damping rate will be 
different from side to side (assuming   the right one has wear).  So you could have 
some hairy handling characteristics in  sharp turn transitions!

> i asked for the part number to see if i could find it cheaper and have him
> do the
> installation. he agreed to do so, but said there would be a surcharge
> because the
> shop makes money off the parts. i didn't find that unreasonable, and he's a
> good guy, i
> don't mind paying -- when i have money. but being a poor law student i have
> two
> questions:
> 
> 1. what are the hazards of only replacing one side? Bentley's says always
> replace
> struts and springs in pairs, is it to risky to  do it one at a time.
> 

Hazards are strange handling in transition.

> 2. for the most part the car drive's fine, but whenever i hit a bumpy area
> in Nebraska's
> pothole ridden streets there's significant bounce and rattle. is the car
> unsafe to drive,
> for say 30 days, until i get afford to repair both sides?
> 
If the reason for replacement is the left strut is worn and not providing 
proper damping, don't drive it hard.  Take it easy until you get the struts 
replaced.  If the reason for replacement is loose mechanical parts that are 
rattling around, the more you drive it, the more damage you can do to the other parts 
(either the hub or the strut mount).  If that's the case, replace it 
immediately before you do more damage.

> 3. how difficult is it for me to replace the strut assembly myself? i have
> my Bentley and
> Haynes manuals and a decent set of tools -- will i need anything special,
> besides a
> spring compressor?
> 
It's a good "do it yourself" job if you are mechanically inclined.  The only 
special tool is the spring compressor.  The hub bolts can be a bear sometimes, 
so you'll need a long swing handle (breaker bar) or impact wrench if that 
happens - otherwise, not.  You'll also need an allen wrench and box end wrench 
for the top of the strut, but that shouln't be a problem.  If you go with 
adjustable strut replacements (more expensive), then you will need a deep socket 
with wrench end (ie spark plug socket) to tighten the strut locknut while you 
hold the strut spindle with a smaller socket - again, no big deal.

If you purchase the strut and housing assembly (the usual way to go), it's a 
simple swap once you have the old struts out.  If you go with the M3 cartridge 
in your old housing, then you have to do some cutting and drilling.  This 
might save you a few bucks, but at the expense of more labor.

Good Luck,
Charlie
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