re: Scott's top questions

[hugh shawcross <shawcros@domain.elided>]

I've never used one of these (wish I had one when I did my top) but there's
a tool that's generically called a "nut riveter" that will apparently do
the job you want. This information is based on other submissions by other
in-the-know digesters. You can see an example of one at Harbor Freight's
site. Search for item 1210-1VGA. I think one of these things would be a
welcome addition to my tool box for other project work as well (although
the company mentioned won't ship to my neck of the woods).
Utilizing sheet metal screws is a workable option. That's what I found when
I pulled my old top off and I added a few more when rusted studs broke off
as a nursed off the nuts from some of the remaining studs. The problem with
using the screws is that you're forced to feel your way around for the
holes in the bulkhead where the previous screws were located. It can be
done, but with a 6'4" body crammed into a place where no body was ever
intended to go the less time spent there, the better, in my opinion.
One of the hints I got prior to replacing my top was to use the old one as
a template for punching new holes in the new top where the studs (or
screws) come through (some tops apparently come with pre-punched holes but
mine did not). Be very careful doing this though (I.E. measure at least
twice or you may find your top doesn't fit well at the windshield). 

I used 3M contact cement remover for the old glue on my bvows and it worked
well. To tell you the truth I think I miight have used some brake cleaner
in a couple of areas too. As for the paint, it was rubbed off in a number
of areas on my bows anyway so I took the time to do some light sanding and
applied some flat black Tremclad paint from spray cans.    

Hugh
' 74 Spider
Medicine Hat
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