Re: Milano hard starting

[Antonio Rosciglione <ajr666@domain.elided>]

I think you may have answered or at least pointed yourself in the 
direction of the answer when you said the battery is near flat and will 
go flat after a few turns of the key.  More to the point, you mention 
that when you use the race cars battery to jump it, it will start 
immediately.  Finally, when it does start to run (with its own dying 
battery I assume) it runs rough initially.

I would think (no expert here for sure) that if you change the battery 
the hard start issue should die.  It seems that though you get enough to 
crank the engine over, there is just not quite enough juice in the 
battery to get the car properly sparked up.  The rough idle immediately 
after is either due to residual fuel built up in the champers clearing 
out or possibley the battery still not up to full charge again.  
Seems like a 60 dollar fix to me, or just use the race car battery until 
they are on sale.  
The battery issue was an issue with a former spyder my brother owned. 
Was tough to start and get running.  Battery was new but was undersized 
(sears screw up).  Once the new larger capacity battery was in the car 
would fire nearly immediately, this on a Spica car too.

Good luck,
Antonio


> ----------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 05:59:10 -0600
> From: Steve Wirtz <swirtz@domain.elided>
> Subject: Re: Milano hard starting
>
> One of the problems could be the coolant temperature sensor for the fuel 
> injection. My Spider had a bad one indicating about 120 degrees F even 
> when cold. Also check the cold start injector and thermo time switch. 
> Sounds like it is running lean on startup. When the coolant temperature 
> is lower than 100 degrees F, the injection system is in the cold start 
> enrichment. As the temperature increases the enrichment decreases.
>
> Steve Wirtz
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