RE: Brake Bleeding Qustions and Shocks

["Peter Webb" <webb.p@domain.elided>]

Start with the wheel furthest from the master.   But, there is a technique
you can use to bleed all 4 at once with no help.

Get 4 jars, 4 coat hangers, and 4 lengths of rubber tubing that will fit
very tightly around the bleed nipple.   Fill each jar 1/4 full with fresh,
clean brake fluid.   Submerse the tube in the fluid, fit the other end over
the bleed nipple.   Suspend the jar from something nearby with the coat
hanger (like a suspension part).  This is important because you don't want
the tube coming out of the fluid.   Open all 4 bleed nipples.   Fill the
reservoir with fluid.   Pump the brakes a few times.   Check the reservoir.
Don't let it run dry.   Refill as needed.   Pump again.   After about 4-5
cycles you should be bled and have brand new fluid throughout the system
which is a must for keeping brakes in good working order.   This will also
help the seals last longer.

HTH

Peter


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-alfa@domain.elided [mailto:owner-alfa@domain.elided]On Behalf Of
Xpertcool@domain.elided
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 7:53 PM
To: alfa@domain.elided
Subject: Brake Bleeding Qustions and Shocks


Two questions regarding some work I''ll be doing this weekend on my '74
Spider:

1. Is there any particular order recommended for bleeding the brakes (i.e.,
start with which corner then go to which next corner) and which brake fluid
is best?

2. Any comments on shocks for the 115 Spider? I see Bruces Parts Bin is
having a sale on Sachs Bogies--which I think may have been oem for this
model. Would there be a reason to go to a more premium shock on a street
machine, such as Koni?

Kevin Murphy
Framingham, MA
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