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RE: Alfetta Sedan Project - Adjusting rear brakes



The handbrake and caliper piston adjustment are related.   The handbrake
will not function properly and have no tension on the cable when the pistons
are not adjusted to the rotor.   After initial adjustment, they self adjust
until the hex screw is turned.

Back the pistons all the way out to install the new pads.

Seems like a silly question but I'll ask anyway.   Are you releasing and
holding the lock nut while you adjust the pistons in and out?   There is a
special tool to do this but its possible with a thin box-end wrench.

After you get them moving, you need to put a feeler gauge between the pad
and rotor.   Once you reach the clearance (don't remember what it is from
memory), hold the hex screw in place and tighten the lock nut.  Adjust the
handbrake back to where it gets stiff about half way up and feels like its
grabbing hard at the top.   To test the handbrake, apply it, put the car in
first gear, rev it up to about 2000 rpm and release the clutch slowly.
The handbrake should hold the car.

-Peter

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]On Behalf Of
Daegrigg (Don)
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2002 2:42 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Alfetta Sedan Project - Adjusting rear brakes


The resuscitation of my 79 Alfetta sedan plucked for storage in a southern
Michigan garage continues.

The good part - She's running better and better. Replaced the TA which
helped a lot and completed the first steps in the SPICA tuneup procedure
from AROO.

Unsprung weight or no, the rear brakes are a pain to work on.  I have tried
to adjust the inboard and outboard but nothing seems to happen regardless of
how much I turn the screws/nuts.  Also the handbrake adjustment is maxed
out.  Does this mean that there is just no adjustment left?  If this is the
case, logic says that I will need to back off the adjustment when I install
new pads. Yes?

Thanks,

Don

91 164S
86 Graduate
79 Alfetta Sedan
95 Infiniti
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