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Re: Impact wrench advice
Ah. I'd missed the beginning of this, and didn't realize that the
discussion centered around removing the pinion shaft nut. Yes, I agree
completely with Greg that using an impact wrench here would be a bad idea.
This is a big, strong nut, so as long as you use a good socket (use an
impact socket, just not an impact wrench) and a really long breaker bar,
and it should come loose.
I should point out that Merritt Cardin, who does *many* gearbox rebuilds,
has no compressor in his shop, and he's a really little, frail old guy.
He has no problem removing that nut. I can't say how he does it, but
he doesn't use air tools to do it.
james montebello
'84 gtv6 (w/cardin rebuilt&lightened 'box)
On Tue, 2 Jul 2002, Greg Hermann wrote:
> One of the BIG reasons why I (earlier) suggested obtaining a HAND tool
> which would generate enough leverage to do the job (without requiring a
> subsequent trip to the quackopractor) is that using an impact tool on a
> part in close proximity to anti-friction bearings (such as is the case with
> the companion flange on a differ's pinion shaft) is _NOT_ a wise thing to
> do.
>
> One can often and quite easily end up with brinnelled bearings as a result
> of use of an impact tool for this sort of a job. The end result of this
> kind of an insult to the bearing will often be that it will have a _very_
> short life expectancy !
>
> Greg
>
> At 4:50 PM 7/2/02, Mark Denovich wrote:
> >For less than $200 you are stuck with 1/2" or less impact wrenches.
> >Unfortunately, you won't get significantly more grunt from one of these
> >than you can get from a 1/2" ratchet (possibly with cheater pipe.) In
> >my experience I can muscle things loose with a 1/2" ratchet that my 1/2"
> >impact wrench won't budge. The hammering action of an impact wrench can
> >help a little but it's no magic bullet.
> >
> >For significant torque you need to go up to a 3/4" or 1" impact wrench.
> > Unfortunately these aren't cheap (generally $300+) and you need a lot
> >of air. This means big hoses from the compressor to the wrench, along
> >with a big compressor, probably 2-stage 5 real-hp or better (not to be
> >confused with Sears-hp). Again not cheap. Oh yeah, the sockets
> >aren't cheap either.
> >
> >So unless you are planning to invest, try a different angle:
> >
> >heat, penetrating oil (I like PB-Blaster), and a 3' section of thick
> >wall black pipe to slip over the end of a 1/2" breaker bar.
> >
> >You'll either get it loose, shear it off, or realize it's not coming loose.
> >
> > --Mark
> > --been there, done that
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