re: Timing chain swap

["Tony Sims" <simstony@domain.elided>]

Ed wrote:

>Can someone give me a rundown on whats involved in changing the upper
>timing chain on a 1750?

You'll probably get 50 responses on how to change a chain -- here's my
favorite time-saver tip:  When you unhook the master link, connect the end of
the new chain to the old with the master link.  Securely hook a 12" length of
coat hangar wire or similar into the loose end of the new chain so you can
keep it from slipping into the block, and then you can draw the new chain in
to position while removing the old.  Of course, when removing or installing
the master link and "fish" clip, be sure you have a rag stuffed in the front
cover so if anything drops you don't have to remove the sump to retrieve
it...

>Mine is making noise (I think thats what I
>hear) and when I try adjusting the timing chain tensioner it doesn't
>seem to be taking up the slack. Which leads to another question. Does
>the adjuster have an end stop that will keep it from moving out far
>enough to adjust a chain that is really badly stretched?
>FYI, I'm adjusting the tensioner using the hot motor, turned off, pry
>bar method as recommended by many as a safer method than the factory
>recommended procedure. When I loosen the lock bolt and try to move the
>adjuster it wont move at all. I can pry it back in, then move it out
>easy enough but it doesn't seem to move far enough to take up the chain
>slack.

There's no stop, it will come all the way out, that's how you remove it.
Maybe the lock bolt has been severely over-tightened and has bunged up the
shaft of the tensioner enough that it is catching in the bore?  The other
unlikely possibility is the spring behind the tensioner is broken.  That
wouldn't hold the tensioner back, but it would keep it from having any tension
when extended beyond a certain point.  You could pull the plug behind the
spring to check.
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