Restoration begins in earnest

[alfacybersite <acs@domain.elided>]

In #846 Randy Long gives a good overview of what he has done to strip
off the paint on his '73 Spider and how he plans to proceed with the
painting.

Randy, I have a few questions and comments: Where did you purchase the
pure Methylene Chloride?

You mention only small amounts of plastic filler (Bondo). How fortunate
for you. I'm sure it has been removed now, but unless it was cracked or
the stripper softened it, I would have left it on and re-profiled it.

Before you start sanding with 220, I'd suggest going over the entire car
with lacquer thinner (or?) to make sure all of the stripper residue is
removed. People often feel that by sanding it will remove everything.
Sometimes residue can be impregnated into the metal although the PPG
epoxy primer should seal it off. However, to be on the safe side...

Curious about your using a red tinted sealer after completing sanding on
the high build primer. You shouldn't have to seal it before painting,
but am assuming you want red below what I assume is going to be red
paintjust in case. Why not have light gray high build primer tinted red
and skip the sealer? I personally like the 'tooth' of the high build
primer sanded with 400 so the base coat will adhere nicely.

Will admit I only clear coat cast rims, but be sure to get that clear
coat on roughly 20 minutes after painting the base coat. Obviously I'm
not an expert, but strongly suspect the reason one often sees the clear
coat peeling from the base coat is because it was clear coated long
after the base was applied.

You'll regret not removing the engine and engine ancillaries before
painting. If not you will have to remove (one assumes) a dirty engine
(and tranny?) over fresh paint; clean engine bay trying not to get
cleaner on paint; then have to mask everything to a fair-thee-well when
painting engine bay.

Good luck on the project!

Biba
Irwindale, CA USA
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