Lower Wishbone Re-assembly

["Tony Sims" <simstony@domain.elided>]

Hi Brian,

>1) Nowhere can I find the correct torque for the nuts at the end of the
>lower wishbone support shaft (under the dust caps). Does anyone know what
>it should be?
According to my Haynes manual (oh stop laughing, you bums) it should be 40.5
to 42.7 lbs/ft.  Someone with factory specs (Scott Fisher) may have a better
answer, but that's how mine went back together 2 weeks ago.  If it turns out
to be wrong you can always re-torque them.

>How stiff should they be to move up or down?
Before you torque the crossbar (support shaft) nuts they should move easy.
Clean the shaft ends of the crossbar with emery cloth or the like until shiny
like new.   Be sure to put anti-sieze on the shafts so your new bushings will
not get stuck to the crossbar.

>Do I tighten them only once the car is resting on the wheels?
The manual says yes -- only tighten things finger tight, then torque with the
car on the ground with full weight on the suspension (fun job, not a lot of
room down there...).  Practical advice -- I think this really only applies to
the nuts holding the wishbones to the crossbar, not to the spring pan bolts or
the bolts holding the lower ball joint.  You can torque the lower ball joint
to the a-arms on the bench, I can't see how the tiny bit of movement possible
when these bolts are loose will matter (You are putting in new lower ball
joints now, while you have all this apart, right?!).  Be sure you install the
bolt with the shock mount the right way -- shock mounts toward the rear of the
car.

Also, when you put the springs back in, a spring compressor will make life
easier, but you can use a floor jack under the spring pan if you are careful
and willing to futz with things for a while.  Just be sure you have the pan
bolts in the right places so the anti-roll bar mount is in the front outermost
position.

>2) In the factory manual it says "Slide the internal washer into the
>support shaft directing them with the chamfer turned towards the body of
>the support shaft" What is the "chamfer" and how do I make sure it's put
>back together correctly?
You should have 3 washers (1 large flat, 1 small dished, 1 small flat) and a
nut for each arm of the wishbone.  Also, it is important to note that the
wishbone arms are not identical, there is a 'front' and a 'back' version.  The
head (crossbar end) of the 'back' arm looks smaller, it is machined into a
cone shape on the dust cap side.  This is so the ball joint on the ends of the
tie rod will clear it.

The big washer goes on the crossbar first.  If you look at both sides of the
large washer, you'll see that the hole has an angle cut on one side, this is
the chamfer. It goes toward the middle of the crossbar (away from the
bushing).  Next goes the wishbone, then the cup washer (mine had the cup
facing away from the bushing when disassembled, so I put it back that way),
then the flat washer, then the nut.

>3) On the 4 bolts fastening the lower wishbone support shaft to the body,
>where do the washers go? between the bolt heads and the body, between the
>support and the body? between the nut and the support arm?
Between the nuts and the crossbar on the bottom side.  Bolts go in from the
engine side, then the crossbar, then the washer, then the nut.

>4) Can you re-assemble the lower wishbones to the lower ball joint while on
>the car, or do you have to put together using a vice?
Refer to unsolicited advice about ball joints above.  Regardless, you can bolt
the wishbone to the ball joint or the ball joint to the spindle assembly with
the parts on the car.  No need for a vice.

Cheers,
Tony
Portland, OR
74 GTV 2000
70 2800CS
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