GTV6 & Alfetta rear brakes

[alfacybersite <acs@domain.elided>]

Warning: The opinions about to be expressed only apply to Non Racer
boy's and girl's cars.

I personally would be more concerned about over engineering the rear
brakes than the heat situation.

Please correct me (and I have not the slightest doubt someone will) but
it is my understanding that 'on an average' the front brakes do about
2/3 of the braking and (obviously) the rears only do 1/3.

I'm neither a racer nor an aggressive street driver but if I was and
suffered poor braking on one of the above mentioned cars, the first
thing I would do is put in fresh brake fluidobviously thoroughly
flushing out the old. If I lived in a high humidity area (Seattle comes
to mind), I'd do it twice a year. Any water in brake fluid is going to
make it boil considerably more quickly.

I'm not a Dot 5 guy. I like the security / feeling of a high brake
pedal.

If I haven't replaced the MC for some time, I'd do it, just on account
of. If the booster should have any fluid in it, I'd also replace it.

I'd also replace all flex lines, but not with 'stainless' ones. First,
they only have a stainless mesh covering, secondly how do you know when
they have cracked and need replacing? Again, my understanding is they
are meant 'for off-road (street) purposes only'. In this case, for good
reason, not just to get around the law. Should one be willing to replace
them frequently (no matter how good they look on the outside), you
should have a somewhat firmer pedal and a more responsive feel.

Assuming one has fresh, somewhat aggressive 'street pads' all the way
around, I'd then wrap the rear exhaust pipe with exhaust / header
insulation tape where it comes close to the right rear caliper and
adjust the exhaust as far away as possible. Don't care what your muffler
guy saysdo it! I've harked on this for years and Joe Elliot, for one,
apparently agrees.

Should you be concerned about rust, remove the wrap from time-to-time
and check the metal. Replace as requiredthen re-wrap. I've mentioned
this before, but I use Earl's .032 stainless safety wire to hold the
ends of the wrap on. It is crowded 'back there' and the wire takes up no
additional room as opposed to hose clamps.

Don't adjust the rear pads too close. Yes, you'll lose a little pedal
and emergency brake notches, but pads won't be constantly rubbing on
(and heating up) the rear discs.

Take her out for a good hard run. Bet it's a whole lot better. However,
if you're still not completely satisfied, put on ''drilled' front discs.
I won't pretend to get back into the recent discussion as to the best
means to accomplish this (check recent past Digests).

Then finally, I'd consider 'venting' the rear calipers / discs (as
opposed to vented rear discs). Have never done it but bet a clever
'enthusiast' could go to page 37 (for instance) of Racer Parts
Wholesale's recent catalog and by combining a couple of NACA ducts and
their high-temp ducting hose, could infuse the hot little 'rear end'
with a few less degrees of heat.

The above mentioned catalog also has header insulation tape on page 14.

Try it you'll like it (to coin a phrase). If it all actually works
(solves the problem), let me know. Bet it does...and without all that
much of an investment in time or money.

Biba
Irwindale, CA USA
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