re: 105 trans rear seal

["Tony Sims" <simstony@domain.elided>]

GModelle@domain.elided wrote:
>
>Digesti,
>The spots now appearing on the alfahaus floor indicate the seal at the
tranny
>yoke is failing. Can anyone verify that this is normally serviceable? Does
>any Alfista remember what size the deform-to-secure bolt fastening the yoke
>is? I have to go buy a box wrench. Is this job equivalent to the pinion seal
>replacement in difficulty?  Without reopening the old thread, is there a
>connection between lubricant and seal life?
>
>Modelle in Somers Point

How timely -- I just did this last week -- my trans is on the bench, but it
would have been a relatively easy in-car fix as well.

Output flange (yoke) bolt is 32 mm -- I found a quite serviceable 1/2" drive
deep well 32 mm socket at my local AutoZone, masquerading as a FWD axle nut
socket, for about $4.  I think a socket is a better choice than a box-end, it
saves you from working around the arms on the output flange and it will let
you use your torque wrench when you put it back together.

You'll have to drop the driveshaft, and maybe the trans support crossmember --
I can't recall where it goes in relation to the tail of the trans (it's
official, my car has been in pieces WAY too long...)

If at all possible, use a scratch-awl or a center punch and a small hammer (or
the ever popular BFH set on "gentle") to wedge the little deformation in the
bolt out of its slot.  It makes it turn much easier.  One trick to hold things
from turning -- tap one of the yoke-to-flexdisc bolts back far enough to hit
on the side of the trans so the yoke can't turn.

Once the output flange bolt is off, the flange will slip right out of the
trans.   Then you can carefully pry the seal out with a screwdriver or the
like.  Be careful not to dig into the trans housing around the seal, or your
leak may be much worse post-repair.

I started driving the seal back in using another large socket (probably my
1.5" crank pulley socket), but it wasn't deep enough and it bottomed on the
trans shaft.  I switched to a small brass punch and carefully seated the
seal.

Before reinstalling the flange, I polished the shoulder where the seal rides
with some crocus cloth to make sure it was nice and smooth.  I also smeared a
bit of assembly lube on this shoulder so it would slip into the seal without
grabbing (insert leer and wink here).  I found it helpful to pull out the
speedo drive before inserting the flange, it was much easier to seat the small
gear to the larger one than vice-versa.

Remember to peen the bolt into the shaft groove after torquing.

I'd *guess* you could do this without draining the trans if you jack up the
car from the rear, but of course I didn't do it that way so I won't swear you
won't get bathed in gear lube.

Happy wrenching!

Tony
Portland, OR
74 GTV (just a week or two away from seeing the road again!)

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