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Performance mods - biggest bang for the bolt on buck



    Hands down has to be removing the water pump mounted fan.   you gain
7 hp by removing something!!
    and in the middle of wintertime..... what have you got to lose? Do
it today! if you HAVE to have a fan (mental or something)  cut off 4 of
the blades and leave 2 opposing blade remaining.  but in the wintertime
you shouldn't need it. AND you don't have to worry about the fan
exploding and ruining you hood.  I would use this opportunity to remove
the shroud also. it makes installing a new FI belt SO much easier, out
on the side of a road.

    blueprint the distributor make sure it has the stock dwell that the
advance weights move freely and that the contact points are exactly
parallel.  there are possibly some gains to be made by having a someone
check the advance curve. maybe not.

    correctly set up Spica is already the hot set-up

    I don't see any point in degreeing stock cams except to confirm that
the marks are in the right place. you can somewhat customize your power
band by altering the timing, tho a gain here is a loss elsewhere.
    degreeing the cams and using the valve clearances to dial in the
timing may be worthwhile although i know nothing about this - never
taken the time, is well beyond the scope of a $200 tune-up.

    euro cams are a fairly easy bolt on  I have a set I'd like to
sell....... low miles. $150. contact me off list.

    life doesn't have any guarantees. but some times if you take a
chance it'll pay off for you.

    And i have to disagree with one of your generalizations about
cams....
    I feel lift generally affects a broad portion of the power band
while overlap affects mostly high end.
    as an example the TS uses an 11 mm lift cams for the street while 25
years ago anything with that much lift would have been a wild race cam
and also have lots of duration. better ramp design and valve spring
metallurgy enable this trend.
    as always, if i'm wrong, please correct me.

    Norm

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