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Broken Spica Injector Line - Diagnosis
I replaced the broken fuel line on my spica this weekend, thought I'd let
you all know what I surmise the problem to have been. I received several
replies to my original request all with the same theme: Vibrations caused
by missing or improperly installed fuel line clamps was the culprit. All
the clamps were present and properly installed, HOWEVER, the bracket for
the first set of clamps closest to the spica pump was itself not connected
to the Spica pump - the two 6mm bolts were missing, I assume their nuts had
vibrated off. When I found this condition it reminded me that when the
line broke the first time the two 6 mm bolts that hold the back of the
spica pump to the motor mount had been missing and I had replaced them at
that time. Hence the first failure was possibly caused by the back of the
injection pump vibrating, while the second failure was probably caused by
the whole cluster of four pipes vibrating because their common mount had
become detached from the back of the pump. I think I would have noticed
the missing bracket bolts if they had been gone on the first repair, but
perhaps not. Anyway, I used blue threadlocker and double nuts on the
bracket's replacement bolts.
Thanks for the help. //kct
---
<snip>
About 1200 miles ago my Spica equipped GTV suffered a broken fuel line for
the #4 injector. This hard metal fuel line broke at the injection pump
right above the "nipple" at or under the "cap" which secures it to the
pump's "tower". Fortunately I had a spare, and the repair was
surprisingly easy. When I replaced the line I was careful to connect both
ends and tighten gradually to avoid stressing the line, and all of the
intermediate clamps between the pump and the injector were properly
installed. The pump appears to be properly mounted, including the rear
bracket which connects the pump to the engine mount.
Today, I once again broke the new #4 fuel line was in the same place. I've
driven Spica Alfas for 15 years and never had this kind of failure until
now, twice in 1200 miles on the same car (after 10,000 miles since
acquisition)... Any ideas of what might be going on? Can these lines be
overtightened? The only bit of (perhaps) relevant info I can add is that
in both occasions the car was run at WOT in 5th gear for a few miles prior
to the failure...
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