re: if it ain't one thing it's another...

["Giller,Bruce C." <bgiller@domain.elided>]

> Additionally I noted that the upper control arm
> caster bushings are shot, on both sides. Obviously
> I need to replace these. Can anyone tell me 1)
> what is involved with replacing the caster bushings
> & 2) should I be replacing other rubber/suspension
> parts at the same time, such as the ball joints &
> 3) are there better parts available, such as ones
> made from polyurethane? 4) what is involved with
> replacing the wheel bearings?

	1. the caster bushings aren't all that hard to replace.  Remove the
bolt (can be rusted solid to the inner metal bushing and then you need
to cut the bolt out - Sawzall Time!).  Use a propane torch to heat up
the housing around the bushing until you can push out the rubber with a
stick; the rubber begins to bubble around the edges.  Use a hacksaw to
cut a kerf in the outer metal bushing to release the pressure holding it
in and use a punch to get it out.  You need to align the solid webs in
the bushing with the arm; before removing the old one, see how it is
oriented.  Put some anti-seize on the new bushing and press it in - I
used a C-clamp and a socket to do this.  Replace bolt and nut; can't
remember if there is a torque value for the nut.

	2. You need to check the other suspension bits to see if you want to go
thru all that work.  Takes about a weekend to do both sides and since it
is your first try, it'll take even longer.

	3. there are polyurethane caster bushings available (IAP, AlfaBill,
etc) but I've never tried them on my Spider.

	4. For front bearings: remove wheel, unbolt brake caliper from housing
and hang by some wire (don't have to disconnect the brake fluid line). 
Remove the machine screw from the rotor, remove center cap and remove
the cotter pint, axle nut and washer(s).  Pull rotor from the car. 
Remove the bearings and races from the hub and put in the new ones.  Use
an old race as a drift to put in the new one (grind down the outside of
the old race so that it will slip in and out of the hub).  Grease well. 
Use a new seal.  Put rotor back on the axle, and hold in place with the
machine screw.  Put on axle washer(s) and nut.  Whilst tightening down
the nut, spin the rotor so that you don't 'pinch' the bearings.  I
vaguely remember that there is a tightening torque value here but can't
remember what it is.  I've used the old VW Bug method; tighten the nut
until you can't force the big washer with a screwdriver then back off
the nut until you can.  Put in new cotter pin.  Put the hub cap back on.

	Do you have a Spider manual?  It goes over these steps pretty well and
mentions all the torque values that I can't seem to recall.

> Additionally, I was thinking as long as I have to
> go in there, I'll replace the shocks. Which are better,
> for a street-driven car, Koni's or Bilstein's? Are
> they worth it for a street-driven car, or are standard
> equipment type ok?

	I'm partial to red Koni's.

	Bruce

	'86 Spider
	'73 GTV

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