Clutch Bleeding 101

["Robert J Favali" <rob@domain.elided>]

As a follow up to my heavy clutch dilemma I recently posted (many thanks to
the replies off Digest), I seem to be suffering from a severe case of
automotive ignorance ... or maybe incompetence.

I just completed replacing the clutch hose. Now I am struggling with
bleeding the system.
At first I did it the gravity method .... fill it up and let gravity push it
through. Then I moved to the clutch pumping method (thanks to my wife's
great legs) and saw clear fluid with no bubbles. I first put a speed bleeder
in but it could not eliminate >any< system air so I replaced it with the
original bleed screw (how does one install a speed bleeder in a wet system
and not get drowned with fluid pouring from the bleed hole?)

Then I checked clutch fork travel. According to the shop manual, the travel
on the slave cylinder cap / fork is 11-12mm. I measure about 1/2" at full
pedal press but cannot get the clutch to disengage the motor and allow me to
shift into reverse. So my thought is to bleed more to assure greater
cylinder travel to move the fork, etc.

I'll be damned if I can figure out why I cannot get all the air out.  I
suspect air in the system but after 4 pints of Castrol brake fluid, still no
clutch effect and grinding in reverse. I am ready for 6 pints of Guinness.
All joints are tight, no leaks, etc

What am I missing here?   This is not the first time I have bled a system
but it has me stumped.
As my wife said, "Go on-line and get some real answers!" Here I am.

Thoughts? Help?

TIA,
Rob Favali
Burlington VT
93 Spider Veloce (still has karma problem)

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