Re: alfa-digest V8 #46 - Spider Oil Change

[AlfaNeely@domain.elided]

In a message dated 09/11/2001 10:08:26 AM Central Daylight Time, 
owner-alfa-digest@domain.elided writes:


> Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 00:14:27 -0300
> From: "AgendaTech Inc." <agendatech@domain.elided>
> Subject: First Time Oil Change...2nd try!
> 
> My journey on the way to becoming a "shade tree mechanic" is well underway.
> 
> Last weekend I flushed and replaced the antifreeze for the first time. 
> Probably not very exciting for many of you but for me, it was well worth 
> the 2 hours to figure it out.
> 
> Next weekend, its gear box, differential and motor oil change. Any 
> "gotchas"?
> 
> I'm looking for Red Line gear oil but may have to accept Castrol 80W90 for 
> the differential and gear box until I take a trip south to the US. 10W50 
> engine oil is also impossible to find and 15W50 synthetic is expensive 
> ($5.89CDN per litre). I've been directed to 10W40 ($2.09CDN per litre), 
> even though I don't drive in the winter.
> 
> I did notice that the drain plug on the gear box is always wet. Nothing 
> seems to be dripping but is there a gasket or another fix for a leak? I'm 
> also looking for a 12mm allen key for the filler hole, but the local 
> automotive places seem not to carry one in stock.
> 
> Any suggestion for a newbie would be welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> Brian Pleet
> 82 Alfa Spider
> Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
> 

       RedLine Oil is at: http://redlineoil.com/  I like the MTL for the 
transmissions and the NS for the limited slip rear end.  Others say NS is 
better fro the transmission and should not be used for the rear end.  You can 
decide that for yourself.
       I have RedLine in the transmissions and rear ends of all my Alfas.  
However, at $8 per quart, I have RedLine in the crankcase of only a couple of 
my Alfas.  Daily drivers still get Castrol 20W 50.  Or you could try a less 
expensive synthetic oil.  In Canada, 20W 50 might not work come winter.

       I do suggest pulling the valve cover to clean out the half quart of 
dirty oil from the cam galleys.  I do that about every other oil change.  Use 
a turkey baster and paper towels to get all the oil out.  While you are in 
there, check the tension on the timing chain and run the valve clearances 
about every fourth oil change.  Valve clearances should not change, but you 
should make sure they are not changing.
       I also like to remove the bottom of the oil pan sump occasionally.  
The baffles in the pan really accumulate gunk.  The gunk probably does not 
hurt much, I just do not like it being there.  Plus if you are going to 
change to a synthetic oil, you should clean out the sump.

       The oil on the drain plug might not be from your transmission.  That 
is a low point so any oil from the engine will travel back along the 
transmission and accumulate on the low points.  It could be from the 
transmission, but is not necessarily.
       Keep looking for the 12mm Allen wrench.  Sears has them with a socket 
head.  I think I got mine from an air cooled Volkswagen shop.
       The big gottcha is getting the oil into the transmission and rear end. 
 The bottles just do not seem to fit up under the car.  I have tried vinyl 
tubing with an assistant outside the car, but the oil takes forever to travel 
into the desired position.  You can also cut up a regular gear lube bottle 
with the pointy snout to make a funnel, but again, fitting everything under 
the car to make it work is tricky.  The best way to fill the transmission is 
to remove the console and all the rubber boots and just pour it down the 
shifter hole.  That works great in a race car, but is over kill for a street 
car.  In my race car, I drilled a hole in the trunk so an assistant can pour 
gear lube into the rear end more directly.  But again, I doubt you want to 
drill holes in a street car.

Ciao,
Russ Neely
Oklahoma City

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