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Re: bad generator?
Steve Schaeffer wrote:
>Turner did wonderfully, but my little 1600 motor is still running the
>stock generator, and the dashboard light came on during the track event
>and has stayed on. I checked the obvious things, the drive belt is
>still properly tensioned, all my leads seem to be attached. What are
>the first things to check for, can I get a voltage reading right from
>the generator? Which voltage should I see at what rpm, etc, etc.?
>If my generator is bad, I wouldn't hesitate to put an alternator on. Th
>is bastardization could always be returned to original quite easily if
>one desired.
Glad to hear somebody had fun on the track!
The classic tests for a generator still apply to this car. Make sure
you disconnect any modern electronics (radio, CD) that might be too
delicate for this operation. Your generator has at most 3 leads on it.
If there is one bolted to the side of the case, that's the ground lead.
The fat one on the back end is the generator output. The thinner one on
back is the field. Disconnect the fat wire from the generator. Cover
the end with a rag, or some tape to keep from shorting it out. Connect
a good voltmeter to the stud on the generator where the fat wire was.
Start the car and rev it up to 2000 RPM or so. The generator should
show output of at least 14 volts. If not, it's bad. It may be
rebuildable, or you could go to an alternator. The setup from a mid 70s
Spider, GTV or Berlina should fit. The regulator is also different. I
got these items from a Berlina for my 67 GTV. I don't regret it a bit.
With the generator connected back into the circuit, connect the
voltmeter again and rev the motor up with the field terminal grounded.
You should also see significant output from the generator. If the
generator passes, your problem is likely the regulator. The regulator
is just a bunch of relays, and the contacts may have started acting up
in the wet conditions. You could try cleaning the contacts, but the
regulators are not outrageously expensive.
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